8 Pollen View

Devices & Systems

How everything operates

Step-by-step, plain-language guides pulled from every operation manual in the handover pack, with the real diagrams alongside. Tap any picture to zoom in.

Core Systems

Front Door Digital LockYale YMF40A RL (Roller Latch)+

This is the electronic lock on the front door — it opens with a PIN code, a fingerprint, or the backup mechanical key, instead of a normal key alone.

The full picture-guide to the lock's parts, and how to unlock it with a code or a fingerprint (numbered sections 1–15).

More of the picture-guide: emergency power for dead batteries, the Master Mode code chart, and the safety warnings (numbered sections 16–26).

Model: Yale YMF40A RL (Roller Latch), part of the ASSA ABLOY group.
Runs on 4 AA alkaline batteries (1.5V each), fitted inside the lock on the door's inside face. Expect roughly 1 year of battery life if used about 10 times a day.
Holds up to 100 PIN codes and up to 100 fingerprints, plus up to 5 users on an optional remote controller.
There are two ways the lock can be run: Master Mode (one person holds a Master PIN and manages everyone else's codes — best for a family) and Normal Mode (the default, where there's just one shared code and anyone who knows it can also change settings).
There's also a Visitor Code (opens the door only, can't change settings) and a Onetime Code (works once, then deletes itself) — ask whoever holds the Master PIN to set these up for a guest.
A PIN code can be 4 to 10 digits long.
Important: changing between Master Mode and Normal Mode, or registering/removing the phone app, deletes ALL saved codes and fingerprints. Don't switch modes casually.

How to use it

Unlocking with your code:

Touch the keypad with your whole palm for a second — this wakes the screen up.
Type your PIN code on the keypad. The door will unlock.

(You can also do it the other way around: type your code first, then touch your palm on the keypad, or press the ✱ button, to confirm.)

Unlocking with your fingerprint:

Touch the small fingerprint panel with your registered finger and hold it there for about 1 second.
Wait a moment — the lock will beep/confirm and the door will unlock.

Adding a new family member's code (needs the Master PIN — ask whoever holds it to do this):

Type the Master PIN Code on the keypad.
Press the small Registration button (the round "I" button, usually reached by rotating open the small panel on the front of the lock).
Press 2 on the keypad.
Press #.
Type a 2-digit slot number for this person — 01 for the first person, 02 for the second, and so on up to 99 (use 00 for the 100th person).
Press #.
Type the new PIN code (4–10 digits) this person will use.
Press #.
Press Registration again (or ✱) to save it.

Adding a new fingerprint (also needs the Master PIN):

Type the Master PIN Code, then press Registration.
Press 3, then #, then type the 2-digit slot number, then #.
Place the same finger on the sensor and lift it off, 8 separate times — the lock needs several scans to learn the fingerprint properly.
Press Registration (or ✱) to save it.

If the batteries are low:

Watch for the battery light on the keypad flashing red, or listen for the lock's spoken low-battery warning.
Replace all 4 AA batteries at once — use fresh alkaline batteries, never rechargeable ones, and don't mix old with new.
If the batteries die completely before you can change them, you can still get in: press a fresh 9V battery against the two small emergency-power contacts near the top of the keypad (on the outside of the door), then unlock as normal with your code or fingerprint.

Locking the door:

From outside, simply touch the keypad with your palm — the door locks.
From inside, turn the thumb-turn knob on the inside body.
If Automatic Lock is switched on, the door will lock itself about 5 seconds after you close it — you don't need to do anything.

Cleaning & maintenance

Wiping down — use only a soft, dry cloth. Never spray water directly on it, and never wipe it with chemicals like benzene, gasoline, or alcohol — this can damage the electronics and the paint finish.
Battery check — keep spare AA alkaline batteries on hand; swap all 4 as soon as the low-battery warning appears.
Change your PIN code every so often — the manufacturer recommends updating your code periodically for security.

⚠ Safety warnings

⚠️ Never try to take the lock apart yourself — you could get an electric shock and damage the product. Call a professional instead.
⚠️ Don't use force or tools on the lock.
⚠️ In manual lock mode, always double-check the door is properly locked before you leave.
⚠️ Someone can watch over your shoulder and see your PIN code as you type it — be mindful of who's around you.
⚠️ Make sure the door is closed properly whenever you go out, and lock it tight.
⚠️ If "External Forced Lock" is turned on and someone unlocks the door from outside, an alarm will sound — this is a deliberate security feature, not a fault.
⚠️ Only use alkaline AA batteries — never rechargeable ones, as this risks a battery leak, short circuit, or fire.
⚠️ The lock isn't rated for outdoor exposure to damp, extreme heat/humidity, or salty sea air — this kind of damage isn't covered by warranty.

If something goes wrong

Battery light flashes red / lock gives a spoken low-battery warning → the 4 AA batteries are running low → replace all 4 together as soon as possible.
Keypad stops responding to codes for 3 minutes after several tries → 5 wrong code/fingerprint attempts in a row triggers an automatic 3-minute lockout to block intruders → simply wait 3 minutes, or from inside you can open the door bar, use the mechanical key, or press the Registration button to cancel the lockout early.
An alarm suddenly sounds → this is either an Intrusion Alarm (someone forced or pried the door while locked) or a Broken Alarm (the outer keypad unit has been physically pulled off) → to silence it, enter your registered user code and hold Registration for 5 seconds, or scan your registered fingerprint.
All your codes/fingerprints have suddenly stopped working → this happens automatically whenever the lock's mode is switched (Master ⇄ Normal) or the Yale Access app is registered/removed — everything gets wiped as a security measure → the Master PIN holder will need to re-register everyone's codes.

Contact for help:

This manual doesn't list a Yale support phone number — for lock issues, contact the installer/vendor who fitted the lock, or Yale/ASSA ABLOY's local Singapore distributor.

Rooftop Solar Panel SystemShine Solar panels + Huawei SUN2000-3KTL-L1 inverter (installed by Interlink Power System)+

Panels on the roof turn sunlight into electricity, which a box called an "inverter" converts into the same type of power the house normally uses, so it can run appliances and reduce the electricity bill.

A simple picture of how the system works (sun → panels → inverter → house appliances), plus real photos of the solar panel and the inverter that are installed.

The two phone apps you can use to check on the system: the SUN2000 app and the Huawei FusionSolar app.

System size: 1.96 kWp (kilowatt-peak — the maximum power the panels can produce).
4 solar panels, model Shine Solar SNM120H-182M-490W (490 watts each), mounted on the roof.
1 inverter, model Huawei SUN2000-3KTL-L1, installed in a sheltered spot (this keeps it cool, which helps it last longer).
The inverter has a built-in WiFi module and works with the FusionSolar app.
Installer: Interlink Power System Pte Ltd, 32 Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2, #04-13 Sing Industrial Complex, Singapore 569510.

How to use it

Checking the system is working (the easy way — just look at the inverter):

Find the inverter box (installed in the sheltered area near the roof/electrical DB).
Look at the two lights on it, LED1 and LED2.
If both are steady green, everything is working normally and the system is generating power.
If both lights are off, that's normal at night (no sunlight = no generation).

Checking the system with your phone (optional, more detail):

Download the "Huawei SUN2000" app (for a direct local connection) or the "Huawei FusionSolar" app (for cloud/remote monitoring) from your phone's app store.
Turn on Bluetooth and WiFi on your phone, and make sure the inverter is powered on.
Open the SUN2000 app and go to "Setup Wizard."
Scan the QR code on the side of the inverter to connect.
When it asks you to log in, choose Installer and enter the password "00000a."
Tap "Quick Settings" and follow the on-screen prompts (grid code "Singapore," connect to your home WiFi if you want remote/cloud monitoring, etc.).
Once it shows "successful," you're connected and can view live generation data any time.

Cleaning & maintenance

Solar panels — clean with water and a squeegee, about once or twice a year, mainly to remove stains/bird droppings. This requires roof access — treat it as a job for a professional rather than doing it yourself, for safety.
Inverter — wipe away dust, and check that all its connector plugs are pushed in securely and that circuit breakers are in the correct position. Otherwise it is virtually maintenance-free.

⚠ Safety warnings

⚠️ Even when the system is switched off, high voltages can still be present inside the inverter/DB compartment. Never open it yourself — always leave electrical work to a qualified technician.
⚠️ If you ever need to shut the system down (e.g. for maintenance), consult a professional first rather than doing it alone.

If something goes wrong

Both lights off during the daytime (when it should be sunny) → the DC (panel) power may be off → check that the sun is actually out and nothing is shading the panels; if it persists, call Interlink Power System.
One light blinking, not steady → the system may be starting up or not exporting power to the grid yet → this can be normal for a few minutes after startup; if it doesn't settle to steady green, call for help.
Either light blinking red → an environmental alarm on the DC or AC side → note which light is doing it and call Interlink Power System.
Both lights steady red → a fault has occurred → call Interlink Power System and don't attempt to fix it yourself.
No hot water/lighting improvement despite sunny days → could be a wiring or generation issue → contact Interlink Power System for a check.

Contact for help:

Interlink Power System Pte Ltd — Tel: 6484-1406 (also listed as 6484 1406), Fax: 6484-1405, www.interlinkpower.com.sg, 32 Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2, #04-13 Sing Industrial Complex, Singapore 569510.

Air-Conditioning (Aircon) SystemDaikin (models CTKM25/35/50/60/71VVMG, CTKP25/35/50/60VVMG)+

This is the Daikin wall-mounted air-conditioning system that cools the rooms in the house, controlled with a handheld remote control.

The aircon remote control explained with pictures: the power button, mode button, temperature buttons, fan-speed button, and swing (air-direction) button.

Brand: Daikin, Inverter type. Several room units in the house may be different model numbers (CTKM25VVMG, CTKM35VVMG, CTKM50VVMG, CTKM60VVMG, CTKM71VVMG, CTKP25VVMG, CTKP35VVMG, CTKP50VVMG, CTKP60VVMG) — check the label on your specific indoor unit if you need the exact model.
Refrigerant (the cooling gas inside): R32.
This system is cooling only — the remote cycles between Fan, Dry (dehumidify), and Cool; there is no heating mode.
Temperature can be set anywhere from 18.0°C to 32.0°C.
Free professional servicing is scheduled at 3, 6, 9, and 12 months after handover — see "Contact for help" below to book.
Note: this manual (as provided) only includes safety instructions, the remote's quick-reference diagram, and the service schedule — it does not include a detailed filter-cleaning guide or an error-code list. For those, ask the servicing technician at your scheduled visit.

How to use it

Point the remote at the indoor unit and press the round On/Off button in the middle to turn the aircon on (press again to turn it off).
Press Mode repeatedly to choose how it runs — it will cycle between Cool (snowflake icon, cools the room), Dry (droplet icon, removes humidity), and Fan (just circulates air). Keep pressing until the display shows the one you want.
Press the Temp up/down arrows to set your preferred temperature, anywhere between 18.0°C and 32.0°C.
Press the Fan button to change the fan speed — choose A for Automatic (the unit picks the best speed for you), or step through the gentle-to-strong speed levels shown on the display.
Press Swing to make the air-direction flap move up and down automatically, spreading cool air more evenly around the room. Press it again to stop the flap at a fixed angle.
This remote's quick-reference guide doesn't show a Timer button — if your physical remote has one, check with the installer/service technician for how to use it, since it isn't documented in this manual.

Cleaning & maintenance

Professional servicing — scheduled complimentary visits at 3, 6, 9, and 12 months after handover. If you can't make an appointment, call the service department at least 3 days in advance, otherwise that complimentary visit is forfeited with no make-up session.
This manual doesn't specify a homeowner filter-cleaning routine — ask the technician to check/clean the indoor unit's air filters at each scheduled visit.

⚠ Safety warnings

⚠️ Never put your fingers, rods, or other objects into the air inlet or outlet — the internal fan blades spin very fast and can cause injury.
⚠️ Don't try to repair, take apart, or modify the unit yourself — this can cause water leaks, electric shock, or fire. Always call a qualified dealer/technician.
⚠️ Don't operate the remote or unit with wet hands.
⚠️ If the unit smells like burning or is behaving strangely, turn off the power immediately and call your dealer — don't keep using it.
⚠️ If the aircon isn't cooling properly, this could mean a refrigerant leak — stop using it and call a qualified technician; don't use it again until they confirm it's fixed.
⚠️ Sitting directly in the cold airflow for a long time isn't good for your health — avoid prolonged direct exposure, especially for children or the elderly.
⚠️ Keep the remote control out of the reach of young children — an accidental button press could cause unexpected changes.
⚠️ Never place spray cans or other flammable items within 1 metre of the air outlet — hot air from the unit could cause them to explode.
⚠️ Don't wash the unit with water, and don't place vases or other water containers on top of it.
⚠️ Turn off the unit and its circuit breaker before doing any cleaning.

If something goes wrong

Burning smell or unusual noise/behaviour → possible internal fault → turn off the power at the circuit breaker right away and call the dealer/service line below — don't keep using it.
No cool air coming out → could be a refrigerant leak or other fault → stop using the unit and call a qualified technician; this manual doesn't include a full troubleshooting chart, so don't try to diagnose it yourself.

Contact for help:

Service Department — Tel: 6468 7320. Office hours: Monday–Friday 9:00am–5:00pm, Saturday 9:00am–12:00pm. Project reference: Pollen Collection @ Nim Road.

Storage Water HeaterRheem EHG series (5 units — one per bathroom)+

A tank mounted near each bathroom that keeps a supply of water heated and ready, so hot water comes out as soon as you turn on the tap.

What the Rheem EHG water heater looks like.

Size and specification chart covering every EHG model, so you can match it to the unit installed in each bathroom.

Diagram showing where the pressure relief (safety) valve sits on the tank and how the pipes around it are arranged.

Brand: Rheem, model family EHG — this manual covers EHG-30, 40, 50, 60, 80, 90, 100 (one shape) and EHG-25S, 40S, 55S (a slightly slimmer shape). There are 5 of these heaters in the house, one per bathroom — check the sticker/label on each individual unit to see its exact model and litre capacity.
Power: 3000W, at 220–240V, 50/60Hz, drawing about 12.5A.
Factory-set temperature: 60°C (set this way for safety — see warnings below about scalding).
Pressure relief valve rated to 800 kPa; the water supply pressure feeding it should be between 80–800 kPa.
Tank is enamel-lined with a sacrificial magnesium rod inside to help it last longer, insulated with CFC-free foam, and has a rust-resistant "Colorbond" outer jacket.

How to use it

Everyday use (once it's already filled and running):

The heater turns itself on and off automatically — its thermostat keeps the water at the set temperature, so you don't need to do anything.
Leave the cold water inlet tap open at all times during normal use.
When you want hot water, open your tap and mix in cold water first, then slowly add hot until it feels comfortable — never go straight to full hot, as water from the tank can be hotter than 50°C and can scald you.
It's completely normal to occasionally see a small drip of water from the pressure relief valve's drain pipe while the heater is running — this is just the water expanding as it heats up, not a leak.

If the water supply gets cut off:

Turn off the power to the water heater at the switch — this prevents the heating element from running with no water inside ("dry firing"), which will damage it.

Refilling after the tank has been drained (e.g. after maintenance):

Open one of the hot water taps in the bathroom.
Open the cold water inlet tap to the heater.
Wait until water flows steadily out of the hot tap — that means the tank is completely full.
Only now is it safe to switch the power back on.

Cleaning & maintenance

Pressure relief (safety) valve — test it at least once every 6 months: lift its little lever for a few seconds to let water flow out, which clears away lime/scale buildup and confirms it isn't blocked. If no water comes out when you lift the lever, don't ignore it — call a serviceman.
Draining the tank (only if needed for servicing), in order: (1) turn off the power, (2) turn off the incoming water supply, (3) turn on one hot water tap to release pressure, (4) lift the pressure relief valve lever and let the tank drain, (5) reverse these steps to refill it afterwards.

⚠ Safety warnings

⚠️ Never switch on the power until the tank is completely filled with water. Running the heater "dry" (no water inside) destroys the heating element, and this damage is not covered by warranty.
⚠️ Water from the tank can be hotter than 50°C and can scald you — always mix in cold water and adjust the temperature slowly and carefully, especially for children and the elderly.
⚠️ Keep the electrical plug and terminal block dry at all times, and never touch them with wet hands.
⚠️ Not intended for use by children, or by anyone with reduced physical, sensory, or mental capability, unless a responsible person is supervising or has shown them how to use it safely.
⚠️ The heater must not be plugged into a timer or any device that regularly switches its power on and off — this can accidentally reset an internal safety cutout and create a hazard.
⚠️ There should be a floor drain near the heater in case it or its pipework ever leaks.
⚠️ Always turn off the power before any servicing or maintenance work.
⚠️ Only genuine manufacturer replacement parts should ever be used on this heater.
⚠️ The pressure relief valve's discharge pipe must always be left open to the air, never capped or blocked — a blocked overflow pipe can cause the tank to swell, and this voids the warranty.
⚠️ All electrical work on this unit must be done by a qualified/licensed electrician only.

If something goes wrong

No hot water flowing out at all → the cold water inlet tap may be shut, or the pipes are blocked, or the water supply is cut off → turn the inlet tap fully on; if a pipe is blocked, call a plumber.
Water isn't heating up → could be several things: unplugged/no power, a damaged terminal block, a tripped safety switch, the temperature dial set too low, a damaged thermostat, or it may simply still be heating up → check the plug is in; for anything electrical (terminal block, tripped switch, thermostat) call an electrician; if the temperature setting looks low, raise it; otherwise, just wait a while.
Odd noises from the heater or pipes → heating-up noise, or pipe noise when mains water pressure is unsteady, is normal (try closing the cold inlet tap briefly if the pipe noise bothers you) — but scaling on the heating element needs a serviceman.
Water dripping steadily from the pressure relief valve → usually normal (water expanding as it heats), or the valve may be blocked by debris (lift the lever to clear it), or your incoming water pressure may be too high → if it doesn't settle, call a serviceman.

Contact for help:

This manual doesn't list a direct phone number — contact your local Rheem retailer/dealer for servicing and warranty support, and keep your proof of purchase on hand. Manufacturer: Rheem Manufacturing Company (Singapore) Pte Ltd.

Kitchen & Laundry

Kitchen Cooker Hood (Extractor Fan)Brandt AT1490X+

This is the fan and light unit built into the cabinet above your stove — it sucks up smoke, steam, and cooking smells, and it also lights up the cooktop.

The control panel: which button does what, and what each speed setting means.

A labelled picture of the hood's parts (light, controls, grease filters, pull-out front section).

Model: Brandt AT1490X, 90cm wide telescopic (pull-out) hood.
Two fan speeds: I = Low, II = High.
Light is switched on/off separately from the fan.
There's also an A (Automatic) setting.
Power: 400W total, with two 40W light bulbs.
Air flow: up to 950 m³ per hour.

How to use it

Find the small control panel on the front edge of the hood (it slides/pulls out towards you — that's the "telescopic" part).
To turn the fan on low, press the switch to position I.
To turn the fan on high (for stronger extraction), press the switch to position II.
To turn the fan off, press the switch to position 0.
Press the separate light button (the little sun/star icon) to turn the cooktop light ON or OFF — this works independently of the fan.
If your model has it, you can select A for Automatic mode.
Turn the fan on 3–5 minutes before you start cooking — this gets a steady airflow going before the smoke starts.
Leave the fan running for a few minutes after you finish cooking, so it clears out the last of the smoke and smells.

Cleaning & maintenance

Grease filters (the metal mesh panels under the hood) — clean at least once a month (more often if you cook a lot) — pull them out by releasing the clips, then either wash in the dishwasher or soak in hot water; let them dry fully before putting back. Grease builds up inside even when the fan isn't running, so don't skip this.
Charcoal (carbon) filter — only needed if the hood is NOT vented outside (recirculating mode) — replace every 3 to 6 months depending on how much you cook. This filter cannot be cleaned and reused — it must be thrown away and replaced with a new one. Before first use, remember to remove the plastic wrapping from the new charcoal filter and clip it back into place.
Outer body/surface — wipe with a cloth dampened in warm soapy water (about 40°C), then dry with a lint-free cloth — do this whenever it looks greasy or dusty.
Light bulbs — replace when they burn out — first unplug the hood from the power, remove the filter support to reach the bulbs, and make sure the old bulb has cooled down before touching it. Maximum bulb power is 40W — don't use a stronger bulb than that.

⚠ Safety warnings

⚠️ Always switch off and unplug the hood before cleaning it or doing any maintenance.
⚠️ Never flambé (cook with an open flame) directly under the hood — it's a fire risk.
⚠️ If you don't clean the filters regularly, grease can build up and become a fire risk.
⚠️ Never use metal scouring pads, knives, or other sharp/abrasive tools to clean the surface — they'll scratch and damage it.
⚠️ Make sure the kitchen has good airflow/ventilation, especially if you're also using a gas stove or other fuel-burning appliance at the same time as the hood.
⚠️ Don't overload the power socket with multiple plugs or extension cords — this can cause a fire.
⚠️ Keep the power cord away from heat and sharp edges.
⚠️ Young children shouldn't play with the plastic packaging (suffocation risk).
⚠️ Before throwing away an old hood, cut off its power cord first so it can't hurt anyone.
⚠️ This appliance isn't meant to be used by anyone (including children) with reduced physical, sensory, or mental ability, or without experience, unless someone responsible is supervising or has shown them how to use it safely. Children should be supervised so they don't play with it.
⚠️ If the power cord is damaged, don't try to fix it yourself — it must be replaced by Brandt, their service agent, or another qualified technician.
⚠️ Any installation or repair work should only be done by a qualified technician — don't attempt to modify the appliance yourself.

If something goes wrong

Hood doesn't turn on at all → No power is reaching it → Check the plug is properly connected, and check the main power switch is on.
Weak/poor airflow → The metal grease filters are clogged, or (if fitted) the charcoal filter is clogged → Clean the grease filters (see above); if it's the charcoal filter, it needs replacing with a new one.
Motor runs but there's no airflow at all → A valve inside may be jammed → Don't try to fix this yourself — contact a technician.
Motor switches itself off after a few minutes → A high-temperature safety cut-out has triggered → Make sure the kitchen is well ventilated; also check the hood is installed at least 65cm above the stove (this is the minimum required gap).
Strong cooking smells still coming through → If you're using recirculating mode (not vented outside), the charcoal filter may be missing → Make sure a charcoal filter is fitted.
Oil dripping onto the stove → The grease filter is fully saturated (soaked with grease) → Wash the grease filters.
Unusual whirring/rattling sound → Something may be caught in the fan blades → Don't try to fix this yourself — contact a technician.

Contact for help:

See Brandt Customer Care in the Contacts section (the manual has a blank "For original parts & reliable service" box on the cover with no number filled in).

Gas Hob (Stovetop)Brandt TG2232BEL / TG2232BEP (2-burner)+

A built-in 2-burner gas stovetop (one auxiliary/small burner and one medium burner) with a tempered glass top, used for cooking on the kitchen counter.

Labelled diagram of the two burners, the control knobs, the igniter button, and the safety flame sensor.

The three knob positions: Off (dot), High (large flame), and Low (small flame).

Do's and don'ts for pots and pans on the burners (keep pans centred, don't use oversized or unstable pots, don't block the flame with mats or wok stands).

Gas type: this hob comes in two versions — TG2232BEL runs on LPG (gas cylinder/tank gas), TG2232BEP runs on Town Gas (piped gas). Check your unit's rating label to see which one you have.
2 burners: one Auxiliary (smaller) burner and one Medium burner.
Recommended pot/pan size: 12–22 cm on the Auxiliary burner, 12–24 cm on the Medium burner.
Ignition power: the auto-ignite spark is powered by a 220–240V transformer (mains electricity), so the hob needs power as well as gas to self-light.
Each burner has a safety cut-off device (a thermocouple) that shuts the gas off automatically if the flame goes out.

How to use it

Make sure the gas supply is turned on (the isolation valve/tap near the hob or gas tank should be open).
Place your pot or pan on the support grid, centred over the burner you want to use.
Find the knob for that burner — each knob is positioned next to the burner it controls (see the diagram, p4.png).
Push the knob in and turn it counter-clockwise to the "High" (large flame) setting.
Hold the knob in for about 3 seconds after the flame lights — this lets the safety sensor warm up and keep the gas flowing. If you let go too soon, the flame may go out.
Once the flame stays lit on its own, you can let go of the knob.
To adjust the flame, turn the knob between the "High" and "Low" marks — do not force it past either end.
Turn the knob fully clockwise back to "Off" (the dot symbol) when you're done cooking.

Cleaning & maintenance

Wipe up spills — as soon as they happen — so they don't stain or damage the stainless steel or glass surface.
Wash the removable burner caps and rings — every few uses, or whenever visibly dirty — with warm water and soap; dry thoroughly afterwards so they don't rust or clog.
Clean the igniter tip (the small spark part near each burner) — regularly, especially if a burner is slow to light — a clogged igniter is a common cause of ignition problems.
Never use steam cleaners on the hob.
Only use warm water on any enamelled parts — never abrasive powders or harsh chemical cleaners, as these can damage the finish.
If a control knob becomes stiff or hard to turn, don't force it or take it apart — call an authorised technician to replace it.

⚠ Safety warnings

⚠️ If you smell gas, do not light a flame or switch on anything electrical. Turn off the gas supply and open windows and doors to air out the room.
⚠️ Never leave the hob unattended while a burner is lit.
⚠️ If a flame goes out by accident while cooking, turn the knob to Off and wait at least 1 minute before trying to relight that burner.
⚠️ If a burner doesn't light within 15 seconds of turning the knob, stop, turn the knob off, and wait at least 1 minute before trying again — don't keep holding the knob down.
⚠️ If the glass top ever cracks or breaks: turn off all burners immediately, unplug/disconnect the hob's power, do not touch the surface, and do not use the appliance again until it's repaired.
⚠️ Always make sure the kitchen has good airflow when cooking — keep a window open or the extractor hood/fan running, especially for long cooking sessions.
⚠️ This hob is for cooking only — never use it to heat the room.
⚠️ Keep flammable liquids and materials away from the hob.
⚠️ Don't use unstable, warped, or oversized pots and pans — keep them centred on the burner (see p7.png).
⚠️ Don't place any object (like a flame tamer or mat) between the pan and the metal pan support, and don't add an extra wok stand around the burner — both can trap heat and damage the hob.
⚠️ When the hob isn't in use, make sure every knob is turned fully to the "Off" dot, and turn off the gas valve/tank if you're leaving it off for a while.
⚠️ Never try to repair, modify, or take apart the hob yourself — only a Brandt-authorised technician should service it, and only genuine Brandt parts should be used.

If something goes wrong

Burner won't light, or the flame looks uneven → Gas holes may be blocked, or a burner part isn't seated correctly, or there's a draft near the hob → Check the burner cap and rings are sitting correctly and the small gas holes aren't blocked; make sure there's no strong draft (open window/fan) blowing across the burner while lighting.
Flame won't stay lit on "Low" → Gas holes may be blocked, there's a draft, or the low-flame setting needs adjusting → Check for blockages and drafts as above; if it keeps happening, this may need a technician to adjust the minimum flame setting.
Pot or pan feels wobbly on the hob → The pan bottom isn't flat, it's not centred on the burner, or the support grid is placed the wrong way round → Use a flat-bottomed pot, centre it over the burner, and check the metal support grid hasn't been flipped upside down.
If none of the above fixes it → Call Brandt Customer Care. Have ready: a description of the problem and the model number from the rating label.

Contact for help:

Brandt Customer Care Centre — Tel: (65) 6508 4639, Fax: (65) 6476 1882, Email: sgsc@groupebrandt.com

Built-in OvenBrandt BOC7532LX+

This is the built-in wall oven you use for roasting, baking, grilling and warming food, with a dial and a small digital screen on the control panel above the door.

The oven's parts labelled (control panel, light, door, handle) plus what every screen icon and button means.

The four trays/racks you can put inside (safety grid, drip pan, pastry dish, sliding rails) and how each one is used.

Picture-chart of every cooking mode icon (fan, top+bottom heat, grill, etc.) with what each one is best for.

How to unclip the wire shelf supports and take the glass panel out of the door for a deep clean.

Model: Brandt BOC7532LX.
The oven has 6 shelf-support positions (numbered 1–6 from the bottom).
Power: needs a 220–240V single-phase socket with earth, on a 16-amp fuse. This is fixed at installation — you shouldn't normally need to touch it.
Oven light bulb: 25W, 220–240V, rated for 300°C heat, "G9" fitting.
Temperature ranges by mode: Circulating heat (fan) 35–235°C · Traditional (top+bottom heat) 35–275°C · Eco 35–250°C · Full Grill 180–275°C · Grill Pulse 100–230°C.
Before using the oven for the very first time, it must be run empty on its highest temperature for about 15 minutes with the door shut — this "burns in" the oven and some smoke/odd smell is normal and expected.
The cooling fan can keep running for up to 1 hour after you finish cooking — that's normal, it's just cooling the oven down.

How to use it

Setting the time when the oven is first plugged in:

Watch the screen — it will flash 12:00 automatically.
Press + or - until the correct time is showing.
Press the clock button (the leftmost button, with the clock symbol) to lock it in.

Cooking with a manual mode (e.g. Traditional, Circulating Heat, Grill):

Turn the dial/selector to the cooking mode you want.
The oven starts heating straight away — the temperature number will flash on the screen while it heats up.
Wait for the beeps — a few beeps mean the oven has reached the temperature it suggested.
To pick a different temperature, press the temperature button (thermometer symbol), then press + or - to change it, then confirm by pressing the temperature button again.
Put your food in and close the door. Cooking works best with the door shut.

Setting how long the oven should cook for:

Start cooking as above (step above).
Press the clock button — the cooking-time number will flash.
Press + or - to choose how many minutes you want.
Leave it a few seconds — it saves by itself. The countdown starts once the oven reaches temperature.

Using the kitchen timer (a simple beeper — does not turn the oven on):

Make sure the oven dial is turned to 0 (off).
Press the clock button — the timer number will flash.
Press + or - to set the minutes.
Press the clock button again to confirm — the timer starts counting down.
When time is up, it beeps — press any button to stop the sound.

Locking the buttons (so children can't change settings):

Press + and - together at the same time until a little padlock symbol appears on the screen.
To undo it, press + and - together again until the padlock symbol disappears.

Cleaning & maintenance

Wipe the outside — anytime it looks dirty — with a soft cloth and a window-cleaning spray. Never use abrasive scrubbing creams or scouring sponges.
Self-clean the inside (pyrolytic clean) — whenever the inside gets greasy/dirty — take out all racks and trays first, wipe up any thick spills, then set the lever/dial to the CLEAN position. It runs a 30-minute automatic cycle that burns off the mess. The outside of the oven gets hotter than normal during this cycle, so keep children away while it runs.
Clean the inside door glass — occasionally, when it's greasy — first wipe off excess grease with a soft cloth and washing-up liquid, then (if needed) remove the door itself and unclip the inner glass panel with a screwdriver to clean between the layers. Never soak the glass panels in water; rinse and dry with a lint-free cloth. See image p17 for the step-by-step.
Replace the oven light bulb — only when it stops working — unplug the oven and let it cool down completely first, then use a rubber glove to unscrew the light cover (this makes it much easier to grip). Use a 25W, 220–240V, 300°C, G9 bulb.

⚠ Safety warnings

The oven and its door get hot during use. Don't touch the inside or the heating elements — and keep children under 8 well away from the oven whenever it's on.
Children aged 8 and up may use the oven, but only if supervised or already taught how to use it safely. Cleaning must never be done by children without an adult watching.
Always cook with the oven door closed — it's designed to work that way.
Before running the self-clean (pyrolytic) cycle, take out all trays/racks and wipe away any large spills first.
During the self-clean cycle, outer surfaces get hotter than usual — keep children away until it finishes.
Never use a steam cleaner on this oven.
Never use abrasive cleaners or metal scrapers on the glass door — they can scratch it and even cause the glass to shatter.
Before changing the light bulb, always unplug the oven and let it cool down fully, to avoid electric shock.
Don't store food or anything else inside the oven after cooking — it's not a cupboard.
Don't try to modify the oven yourself — this could be dangerous.
If the power cord is ever damaged, don't try to fix it yourself — it must be replaced by Brandt, their service team, or a qualified electrician.
If the oven ever misbehaves, unplug it (or switch off the fuse for that circuit) rather than keep using it.

If something goes wrong

Oven won't heat up → Power or fuse issue, or temperature set too low → Check the oven is plugged in properly and the circuit fuse hasn't tripped, then try raising the temperature you selected.
Oven light doesn't turn on → Bulb has blown, or a fuse issue → Replace the bulb (25W, 220–240V, 300°C, G9), and check the oven is properly connected.
Fan keeps running after you finish cooking → Normal cooling behaviour → No action needed, it can run up to 1 hour. If it's still running after an hour, contact Brandt After-Sales.
Buzzing/vibration noise while running → The power cord may be touching the back wall of the cabinet → Pull the oven out and move the cord away from the wall, then push it back in.

Contact for help:

See Brandt Customer Care in the Contacts section. (When calling, have the model, service reference, and serial number ready — these are on the nameplate/rating label on the oven itself. Brandt's website is www.brandt.com.)

Fridge (Family Hub Smart Fridge)Samsung RS62*5F**** / RS64*5F****+

This is Samsung's big double-door "Family Hub" smart fridge — it keeps food cold and frozen, dispenses chilled water and ice through the door, and has a touchscreen on the front for extra features.

Labelled picture of everything inside the fridge (shelves, drawers, bins, ice maker, water tank) so you know what each part is called.

Close-up of the water and ice buttons on the front dispenser panel.

Step-by-step pictures showing how to take out and empty the ice bucket if the ice has clumped together.

Step-by-step pictures showing how to swap in a new water filter.

Model numbers: RS625F and RS645F** (the * stands for other letters/numbers specific to the exact model).
It is "frost free" — it defrosts itself automatically. You never need to manually defrost it.
The water tank (on models that have one) holds a maximum of 5 litres.
Water pressure needed for the ice maker/dispenser to work properly: between 206 kPa and 861 kPa (30–125 psi).
New fridge needs to run at least 24 hours before it makes its first ice.
Replacement water filter part name: HAFEX/EXP — buy it from a Samsung service centre.
Deodorizer filter (the part that keeps smells away) should be replaced about once a year.
If the power goes out for more than 24 hours, the manual says to throw away all frozen food, since it likely thawed.
If you're away 3 weeks or more, empty the fridge and ice bucket, unplug it, turn off the water valve, wipe the inside dry, and leave the doors open so it doesn't get smelly or mouldy.

How to use it

Getting chilled water or ice from the front dispenser:

Choose your ice type first (skip this step if you just want water) — press "Cubed Ice" or "Crushed Ice" on the dispenser panel.
Put a glass under the dispenser opening.
Push the lever gently backward with the glass — ice or water will come out.
To get plain water instead of ice, press "Water" first, then push the lever with your glass again.
If you hold the lever down for about a minute, it will stop on its own — just let go and push again if you want more.

Locking the dispenser buttons (handy if grandchildren keep playing with it):

Press and hold the "Water" button for 3 seconds — this locks all the dispenser buttons and the lever.
To unlock, press and hold "Water" for 3 seconds again.

First time filling the water tank (models with a tank):

Clean the inside of the tank and dry it well before first use.
Slide the tank out using the two handgrips on the front.
Open the lid and fill it with drinking water only (tap, mineral, or purified water) — never more than the "max" line, and never tea, juice, or sports drinks.
Slide the tank back in, making sure the side with the lid faces forward.
For a truly fresh first taste, push the dispenser lever for about 10 seconds to clear air from the pipes, then throw away the first 6 glasses of water that come out.

If ice isn't coming out:

Lift the ice bucket out gently with both hands.
Check whether there's ice inside.
Press the small reset button on the bottom of the ice maker.
You should hear a chime if it's working properly — if not, call for service (contact details below).

Cleaning & maintenance

Wipe the inside and outside — as needed, whenever it looks dirty — unplug the fridge first, wipe with a soft, slightly damp cloth, then dry it, then plug back in.
Clean the door rubber seals (the black strips that seal the door shut) — whenever they look dirty — clean with a damp cloth and mild detergent, then dry well; dirty seals stop the door closing properly and waste energy.
Vacuum the back panel (where the cords and vents are) — once or twice a year — this keeps dust away, which otherwise makes the fridge work harder and use more power.
Replace the water filter — when the filter light on the display turns red — only use genuine Samsung filters (part HAFEX/EXP); after fitting a new one, run 1 litre of water through to flush out any impurities.
Replace the deodorizer filter (keeps bad smells away) — about once a year, buy it from a Samsung service centre.
Clean the ice/water dispenser area — often, for hygiene — wipe away any built-up ice chips with a soft clean cloth.
Empty the ice bucket if ice hasn't been used in a while — ice can clump together — just lift it out, empty it, and put it back until you hear a click.

⚠ Safety warnings

Only fill the water tank and ice trays with drinking water (tap, mineral, or purified). Never put in tea, juice, or sports drinks — it can damage the fridge.
Never put your fingers or any objects into the water dispenser hole, the ice chute, or the ice maker bucket — you could get hurt.
Don't let children hang off the doors or door shelves, and don't let them climb inside the fridge or drawers — there is a real risk of them getting trapped or hurt.
Don't leave the fridge doors open and unattended, especially with children nearby.
Never use a hair dryer to dry the inside, and never put a lit candle inside to get rid of smells — both are fire risks.
Don't spray water directly onto the fridge, inside or out — this can cause an electric shock.
Don't use harsh cleaners (bleach, scouring powder, thinner, benzene, or products like Clorox) on the fridge — they can damage it and are a fire risk.
Always unplug the fridge before cleaning it or doing any maintenance.
If the fridge ever smells like burning or you see smoke, unplug it immediately and call Samsung service — don't try to fix it yourself.
If water or dust gets inside the fridge, unplug it and call Samsung service straight away — don't keep using it.
Don't overfill the fridge with food — items can fall out when you open the door and hurt someone.
Don't store medicines or anything that needs very precise, strict temperature control in this fridge — it's for food only.
Don't leave the fridge unplugged and empty for good — if you're going away for more than 3 weeks, empty it, unplug it, close the water valve, and leave the doors open to avoid mould and smells.
After unplugging the fridge, wait at least 5 minutes before plugging it back in.
Never try to repair, take apart, or modify the fridge yourself — always call a qualified Samsung technician.

If something goes wrong

Fridge or freezer isn't cold enough → power cord may be loose, the temperature setting is too warm, or it's too close to a heat source/sunlight → check the plug is in properly, set the temperature colder, and make sure there's at least 50 mm of space between the fridge and nearby walls.
Fridge or freezer is too cold → the temperature is set too low → set it a bit warmer.
There's a smell inside → old or strong-smelling food isn't wrapped properly → clean out any spoiled food and make sure smelly food is sealed airtight.
Frost building up near the vents or on the inside walls → food is blocking the air vents, or the door isn't closing properly → move food away from vents, and clean the door seal so the door shuts fully.
Water dripping/condensation on the inside walls → the door was left open too long, or food with lots of moisture isn't covered → don't leave the door open for long periods, and wrap moist food airtight.
Water flow from the dispenser is weak → water pressure is too low (needs to be between 206–861 kPa / 30–125 psi) → check your home's water supply pressure.
Ice maker buzzes but makes no ice → the ice maker function is switched on but no water is actually connected → turn the ice maker off until water is properly connected.
No ice being made → could be several things: it's brand new and needs 24 hours to start; the freezer isn't cold enough (should be below −18°C); the dispenser is "locked"; the ice maker itself is switched off; or it hasn't been used for around 3 weeks and ice has jammed → wait it out, lower the freezer temperature, unlock the dispenser, turn the ice maker on, or empty and reset the ice bucket as needed.
Ice won't dispense → the ice bucket may not be pushed in properly, or the water line isn't properly connected/turned on → check the bucket is seated correctly and check the water connection.
Water won't dispense → water line not connected properly, dispenser is locked, or a non-Samsung water filter was fitted (which can leak/clog) → check the water connection, unlock the dispenser, and only use genuine Samsung filters.
You hear clicking, buzzing, whirring, hissing, cracking, or bubbling sounds → these are all completely normal for a working fridge (compressor starting up, fans running, defrost cycle, refrigerant moving through pipes, or plastic expanding/contracting) → no action needed unless the sound is unusually loud or constant.
Family Hub screen acting strangely → open the fridge door, find the small switch cover in the top right corner of the door, push it up, turn the switch off then on again, and put the cover back until it clicks — this resets the display.

Contact for help:

Samsung Singapore Customer Care — 1800 7267864 or 1800-SAMSUNG (for other enquiries), or 1800 4252997 / 1800-GALAXYS for handphone-related products. Website: www.samsung.com/sg/support

Steam OvenBrandt+

A built-in oven that cooks food using hot steam instead of dry heat, using water from a small refillable tank.

The parts of the oven (display, water tube, tank, lamp, etc.) and what each button on the control panel does.

The removable dishes, shelf, and water tank that come with the oven, and how to stack them for storage.

Picture guide to the 9 automatic cooking programmes (vegetables, fish, meat, etc.) with their default cooking times.

Water tank capacity: about 1 litre (fill to the "max" mark).
Power needed: 220–240 Volts, 16 Amps — must be on a properly earthed (grounded) circuit.
Light bulb: 25 W, 220–240V, G9 fitting (heat-resistant to 300°C).
Has 9 automatic steam programmes, 1 manual mode, and 1 defrost mode.
Steam generator (the hot metal floor inside that turns water into steam) needs vinegar-cleaning once a month.
Water intake tube needs clearing of mineral deposits once a month.

How to use it

Setting the clock (first time / after a power cut)

When the oven is switched on, the clock display flashes "12:00".
Use the + and - buttons to set the correct time.
Press the clock/menu button to confirm.

Cooking with an automatic programme

Fill the water tank up to the "max" line — do this every time, before you start cooking.
Push the tank firmly back into place until you feel and hear it lock into position.
Turn the function selector dial to the picture that matches your food (e.g. vegetables, fish, meat — see the picture guide).
The screen flashes and shows a suggested cooking time. Adjust it if you like with + or -.
Press the start button (▶) to begin. The oven counts down while it cooks.
When it beeps and shows "0:00", turn the dial back to 0 to stop the beeping.
Empty the water tank after every single use — don't leave water sitting in it.

Cooking in Manual mode (choose your own time and temperature)

Turn the function selector dial to the manual symbol.
The screen shows a suggested time — adjust the temperature and time using + and -.
Press start (▶) to confirm and begin cooking.

Defrosting frozen food

Turn the function selector dial to the defrost symbol.
Adjust the time if needed with + and -.
Press start (▶) to begin.

Using the minute timer (kitchen timer, not linked to cooking)

Make sure the oven is switched off first (this only works when off).
Press the clock/menu button — a bell/timer symbol appears and flashes.
Set the number of minutes with + and -.
Press the clock/menu button again to start the countdown.
When time is up it beeps — press any button to silence it.

Locking the buttons (so they can't be bumped by accident)

Press + and - together at the same time until a lock symbol appears on the screen.
To unlock, press + and - together again until the lock symbol disappears.

Cleaning & maintenance

Wipe the inside cavity — after every use — with a dry cloth once it's cooled, or simply leave the door open so it air-dries.
Clean the removable dishes, shelf and tank — after use, whenever dirty — in the dishwasher or by hand with a little washing-up liquid; soak first if very dirty.
Clean the water intake tube — once a month — unscrew it and clear out any hard white mineral build-up with a thin pointed tool (like a skewer or knitting needle).
Clean the steam generator (the hot plate inside that makes the steam) — once a month — pour half a cup of white vinegar onto it, leave for a few minutes, then wipe clean and rinse with water. Never use scouring sponges, abrasive powder, or coffee-machine descaler on it.
Clean the gutter (the drip channel) — as needed — pull it upward to remove it, wipe it, then click it back into its three notches.
Clean the outside of the oven — as needed — use a glass-cleaner spray on a soft cloth. Never use abrasive creams or scouring pads.
Replace the light bulb — only when it stops working — unplug the oven first, let it cool, then unscrew the little glass window (a rubber glove makes it easier to grip) and swap the bulb (25W, G9 type).

⚠ Safety warnings

⚠️ Hot steam escapes the moment you open the door — keep your face and hands back, and keep children well away.
⚠️ The oven and its inside surfaces get very hot during and after cooking — don't touch the heating elements or the metal cavity walls.
⚠️ Don't open the door while cooking is running — besides spoiling the dish, it releases a burst of hot steam.
⚠️ Children under 8 must be kept away from the oven unless someone is watching them the whole time. Children should never be allowed to play with it.
⚠️ Never use a steam cleaner, abrasive scouring pads, or metal scrapers on the glass door — they can scratch it and even cause the glass to crack.
⚠️ Always unplug the oven and let it cool completely before replacing the bulb or doing any cleaning that involves taking parts off — this avoids electric shock.
⚠️ If the oven ever misbehaves, unplug it or switch off its fuse straight away, and call for help rather than trying to fix wiring yourself.
⚠️ The oven must be properly earthed (grounded) — this was set up at installation and shouldn't be changed.

If something goes wrong

Screen is blank / won't light up → No power getting through → Check the fuse for that circuit.
Water or steam leaking around the door while cooking → The door isn't shut properly → Check the door is fully closed.
The inside light isn't working → Bulb has blown, or a connection issue → Replace the bulb (see Cleaning & maintenance above), or check the fuse and that the oven is plugged in properly.
Oven doesn't seem to be heating up → Either a connection problem, or it's accidentally set to demo/display mode → Check the plug/power connection, and check "DEMO" mode is switched off in the settings menu.
"No water" symbol appears with a beep during cooking → The tank is empty or not pushed in properly → Refill the tank and/or push it firmly in until it clicks, then close the door — cooking will restart on its own.
If any problem doesn't go away after checking the above → Contact Brandt after-sales service.

Contact for help:

No direct phone number is printed in this manual. Visit brandt.com for support, or see the Brandt Customer Care details in the Contacts section of this site. When you call for a repair, have the oven's data plate details ready (found on a small label inside the door frame): the commercial reference, service reference, and serial number.

Washing MachineBrandt WFB384QWA+

This is the front-loading machine that washes your clothes — you load laundry and detergent, pick a programme (a pre-set wash setting), and press start.

Labeled picture of the whole machine (top panel, control panel, power cord, drum, filter, drain hose, water hose, detergent drawer, window/door).

Close-up of the control panel showing exactly what each dial and button does.

Simple chart of which programme and detergent to use for each type of clothing, plus a picture of the detergent drawer.

Picture steps for closing the door, adding detergent, choosing a programme, and pressing start.

Model: WFB384QWA.
Maximum load: 8 kg of dry laundry (a half load is about 4 kg, a quarter load is about 2 kg).
Water pressure needed: between 0.05 MPa and 1 MPa (the plumber/installer handles this — you don't need to worry about it day to day).
Power supply: 220–240V, 50Hz.
Only use cold water — never connect it to a hot water supply.
Spin speeds available: 0, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, or 1400 (higher spin = drier clothes but noisier).
Temperature options: Cold, 20°C, 30°C, 40°C, 60°C, 90°C.
If a power cut happens mid-wash, the machine remembers your settings — just press Start/Pause again once power is back.

How to use it

Connect the power cord to the wall socket.
Open the water tap (the machine won't fill without this).
Empty pockets — check for coins, keys, tissues, and other small objects before loading.
Load your clothes into the drum. Don't overfill it — leave some room.
Pull open the detergent drawer (it's on the top-left of the machine).
Add detergent to the correct slot: the middle slot (marked II) is for main-wash detergent, the small flower-shaped slot is for fabric softener, and the slot marked I is only for prewash detergent (leave it empty unless you're using the Prewash option).
Close the door firmly (don't slam it, but push until it clicks).
Turn the programme dial to the wash you want (see the chart on p15.png for guidance — e.g. white cotton sheets = Cotton at up to 90°C; everyday coloured clothes = Cotton at 60°C or lower).
Press the Temperature button if you want to change the water temperature, and the Spin speed button if you want to change how fast it spins at the end.
Press the Start/Pause button to begin the wash.
Wait — the display shows the time remaining. A wash typically takes between 15 minutes (Quick 15' programme) and just under 2 hours (a full Cotton wash).
When you hear a beep and the screen shows "End", the wash is finished.
Wait two minutes after the cycle ends before opening the door (this gives time for any remaining water to settle).
Open the door and remove your laundry.

Forgot to add a piece of clothing? You can add it mid-cycle:

Press and hold the Start/Pause button for 3 seconds to pause.
Wait until the drum stops moving completely and the door-lock light goes off.
Open the door and add the missed item.
Close the door and press Start/Pause again to continue.

Cleaning & maintenance

Wipe the door and rubber seal — after every wash — remove any lint, coins, buttons, or trapped objects, and wipe away moisture so it doesn't leak or smell.
Clean the detergent drawer — whenever it looks dirty or caked — pull it out (press the clip inside, shown by an arrow), rinse under running water, scrub the compartment it sits in with an old toothbrush, then click it back in.
Run the Drum Clean programme — every 25 washes (the machine will light up a "Drum Clean" reminder automatically) — this is a special empty-drum cycle at 90°C that disinfects the machine. Don't put any laundry in for this cycle. Press the Drum Clean button to start it; if you'd rather skip it, hold the button for 3 seconds to turn off the reminder light.
Clean the water inlet filter — if water is coming in very slowly or not at all — close the tap, unscrew the water inlet hose from the back of the machine, brush the filter clean, then reconnect the hose.
Clean the drain pump filter — regularly, to keep the machine draining properly — open the small service flap near the bottom front, turn the filter counter-clockwise to remove it, clear out any debris (careful, the water may be hot), then refit the filter and close the flap.
Wipe the outside of the machine — as needed — use a mild, non-abrasive cleaner. Never use sharp objects, alcohol, or strong chemical solvents.
Descale occasionally — if your water is "hard" (heavy with minerals) — run an empty wash with a washing-machine descaling product from time to time.

⚠ Safety warnings

Keep children under 3 away from the machine unless someone is watching them closely. Children 8 and up may use it under supervision or once they've been shown how, but they should never play with it, and cleaning must be supervised.
Never connect the machine to hot water.
Don't climb on top of the machine or lean on the door.
Always check the drum is empty of water before opening the door — if you can still see water inside, do not open it.
Be careful of hot water when the machine drains — it can scald.
Wait 2 minutes after a wash finishes before opening the door.
Never add water into the machine by hand during a wash.
Empty pockets before washing — coins, keys, and pins can damage the machine.
Don't use flammable liquids like fuel or alcohol as detergent — only use proper laundry detergent, and use low-suds ("low foam") detergent to prevent overflow.
Don't wash carpets in this machine.
If the power cord is damaged, don't try to fix it yourself — it must be replaced by a qualified professional.
Before cleaning the drain pump filter, unplug the machine first to avoid an electric shock.
Never remove the drain filter while the machine is running — only when it's switched off.
If you try to repair the machine yourself and something goes wrong, it can be unsafe and will void the warranty — call Brandt's after-sales service instead for anything beyond routine cleaning.

If something goes wrong

Machine won't start → the door probably isn't shut properly → close the door firmly and switch the machine back on; also check no clothing is trapped in the door seal.
Door won't open → the machine's built-in safety lock has engaged → unplug the machine, plug it back in, and switch it on again.
Water leaking → a hose connection is loose → check and tighten the water supply hose and drain hose connections; clean the drain hose if needed.
Detergent left behind, clumped in the drawer → the detergent got damp and stuck together → clean and dry out the detergent drawer.
Lights/display won't turn on → machine isn't switched on, or there's a power connection problem → check the power is on and the cord is plugged in properly.
Unusual banging or noise → the transit bolts (shipping bolts) may not have been removed, or the machine isn't sitting level → check the transit bolts were taken out and that the machine stands solidly on a flat floor.
E30 → the door isn't closed properly → close the door firmly and restart the wash; check nothing is caught in the door.
E10 → problem filling with water → check the water pressure isn't too low, straighten out any kinks in the water supply hose, and check the water filter isn't blocked.
E21 → water is draining too slowly → check the drain hose isn't blocked or kinked.
E12 → a water leak has been detected → try running another programme; if E12 shows again, turn off the water tap, unplug the machine, and call after-sales service.
Any other code (EXX) → try resetting the machine (switch off, wait, switch on) → if the code keeps coming back, contact after-sales service.
If any problem repeats after you've tried the fix above, stop trying to fix it yourself and call Brandt's after-sales service — don't attempt your own repairs on the electronics.

Contact for help:

See Brandt Customer Care in the Contacts section. (The manual directs repairs to be handled by an accredited professional — have the appliance's commercial reference, service reference, and serial number ready, found on the data plate on the machine, when you call. Spare parts and technical guidance are also available at sav.groupebrandt.com.)

Access & Safety

Front Auto-GateDEA System LIVI/X (sliding gate operator)+

The motor that automatically slides your front gate open and closed, made by DEA System (model LIVI/X).

The official "final user" page: the gate's safety rules and the exact release lever you pull to move the gate by hand in an emergency.

Model family: LIVI/X (electromechanical sliding gate operator). The exact model (e.g. LIVI 6X, LIVI 9X) depends on gate weight.
Built to handle gates up to 600 kg or 900 kg depending on the exact motor fitted.
Normal opening speed: about 10–16 metres per minute (moves fairly slowly and gently on purpose).
Weatherproof rating IP44 — fine for outdoor use in Singapore weather.
Manufacturer: DEA System S.p.A., Italy. This manual does not cover the remote control/keypad itself — that is a separate accessory; for day-to-day use, use your usual gate remote or keypad as already set up.

How to use it

Normal, everyday use:

Use your gate remote or keypad as normal to open and close the gate — this manual doesn't cover pairing remotes, so if a remote stops working, contact the gate installer.
Stand clear of the gate's path while it is moving. Do not touch the gate, the rack (the toothed bar along the bottom), or the motor while it is in motion.

If there is a power outage or the motor stops working — MANUAL RELEASE procedure: This lets you push the gate open or shut by hand. The gate motor sits in a box near the gate track. On it is a small lever with a plastic cover and a lock.

Rotate the plastic protective cover on the motor box to reveal the lock on the release lever.
Turn the key to open the lock, then pull the release lever all the way out.
Take the key out of the lock and push it into the small safety hole (eyelet) on the release lever itself — this stops the lever from snapping back by accident.
The gate is now unlocked from the motor. With nothing blocking it, you can push the gate by hand to open or close it.
To put the gate back into automatic (motorised) mode, simply do these steps in reverse: take the key out of the eyelet, push the release lever firmly back in, lock it, and close the plastic cover.

Cleaning & maintenance

Remove leaves, branches, stones or any debris from the gate track and the area around the motor — as needed, whenever you notice it. This is the one job the manual says a homeowner can safely do.
Wiping the outside of the motor box — every 6 months (or leave to your gate installer).
Checking that screws are tight and the release lever works smoothly — every 6 months, best done by your installer/technician, not required from the homeowner.

⚠ Safety warnings

This is a powered, moving gate — treat it like machinery, not a door. Keep children away from the gate and away from the remote/buttons; DEA recommends keeping fixed controls at least 150 cm off the ground so young children can't reach them.
Never touch the gate, the space between the drive gear and the rack (the toothed bar it runs on), or any moving part while the gate is opening or closing — that gap can crush fingers.
The manual release (above) is for emergencies only. It lets you move the gate by hand, but it does not make the gate itself "safe" — it can still swing or roll unexpectedly once released, so move it slowly and keep hands and feet clear.
The open release lever can snap shut if bumped — keep clear of it while it's open, and don't let children play with it.
Only ever operate the manual release when you need to; for anything beyond that (repairs, adjustments, taking the unit apart), that's a job for a qualified technician, not a family member.

If something goes wrong

Gate doesn't move at all when you use the remote/keypad → likely no power to the motor, or the release lever has been left open (unlocked) → check the release lever is pushed back in and locked (step 5 above); if there's a power outage, that's expected — use the manual release to move the gate by hand, then call your installer once power is back.
Motor hums or runs but the gate doesn't move → could be a mechanical fault (clutch/adjustment) → don't force it; call your gate installer/technician.
Gate moves jerkily, is noisy, or stops halfway → could be something stuck in the track, or a technical adjustment issue → clear any obvious debris from the track; if it continues, call your installer — don't try to fix the mechanism yourself.

Contact for help:

Manufacturer is DEA System S.p.A. (Italy) — tel +39 0445 550789, deasystem@deasystem.com, www.deasystem.com — but for day-to-day problems, your local gate installer/technician in Singapore who fitted this gate is the right first call, since DEA System is the factory in Italy, not a local service line.

Home LiftOTIS Gen2 (Lift No. PL14)+

Your private home passenger lift, made by OTIS, serving 5 levels of the house (Level 1, Mezzanine, Level 2, Level 3 and the Attic).

The official OTIS page explaining every button in the lift: door open/close, the intercom, and how automatic operation works.

The OTIS 24-hour emergency page: what to do if the lift breaks down or someone is stuck inside, with the hotline number.

Lift number: PL14. Always give this number when you call for help.
Carries up to 410 kg, or about 6 passengers.
Travel speed: 1.0 metre per second.
Door: sliding, 800mm wide x 2200mm tall, opens automatically and re-opens itself if it senses something (or someone) in the way.
Serves 5 stops: Level 1, Mezzanine (1M), Level 2, Level 3, and the Attic.
This lift has a battery backup that runs the cabin light, fan, intercom and alarm bell for up to 4 hours if mains power fails.
Important: this specific lift is NOT set up to automatically drive itself down to the nearest floor during a power cut ("emergency power homing" is switched off on this installation). If the power goes out while someone is riding, the lift may simply stop between floors — see below for what to do.
There is no homeowner manual release for this lift, unlike the gate. If it stops, you cannot free it yourself — you must call OTIS.

How to use it

Normal use:

Press the floor button for where you want to go, either at the landing (hall button) or inside the lift (car button).
The lift arrives, the doors open automatically — step in.
Press your destination floor button inside the lift, if not already selected.
The doors close automatically; if something blocks the infrared beam across the doorway, they will re-open by themselves — you don't need to hold a button.
To open or close the doors yourself (e.g. to let someone catch up), use the < Door Open > and < Door Close > buttons on the car panel.
Fan and light switches are inside the service cabinet on the car panel if you ever need to turn them off/on manually.

If the lift stops working, or someone is stuck inside (mantrapped):

Stay calm — the cabin has emergency lighting, a fan and a working intercom/alarm for up to 4 hours even without mains power.
Press the intercom button inside the lift car — this sounds a buzzer on the panel at the top landing.
If you are outside the lift and hear the intercom buzzer or alarm, pick up the intercom handset at the top-landing panel and talk to whoever is inside to reassure them.
Call the OTIS Service Hotline: 1800 297 1010 (24 hours) and tell them: - The address (8 Pollen View) and the lift number: PL14. - What's wrong (e.g. "lift stuck between floors", "doors won't open", "strange noise"). - If someone is trapped inside, and whether they are elderly, pregnant, a young child, or otherwise need extra care. - Your name and a contact number.
Do not try to force the doors open or climb out — the lift is deliberately built so the car doors can't open more than 100mm unless it's safely stopped level with a floor, precisely to stop anyone falling down the shaft. Wait for OTIS.
Typical OTIS response time: about 30–45 minutes for someone trapped inside, or around 2 hours for a non-urgent fault.

Cleaning & maintenance

There is no homeowner cleaning/maintenance task described for this lift — it is a sealed, technician-serviced system. Routine servicing and inspection should be scheduled with OTIS directly, not done by the family.

⚠ Safety warnings

Don't exceed the rated load (410 kg / about 6 people) — an overload buzzer will sound and the lift will simply stay put with doors open until weight is reduced.
Never try to pry the doors open yourself, especially if the lift isn't level with a floor — there is a shaft below.
If the power fails while you're in the lift, it may not lower itself to a floor automatically on this installation — don't panic, use the intercom and call the hotline above.
This lift is for passengers only — it's sized and rated for people, not cargo beyond the stated weight limit.

If something goes wrong

Lift doesn't respond to any button → check it's not simply mid-journey elsewhere in the house → if truly unresponsive, call the OTIS hotline (non-urgent, ~2 hr response).
Lift stops between floors with someone inside → that's a "mantrapped" situation → use the intercom, call the OTIS hotline immediately (~30–45 min response), do not try to open doors or climb out.
Overload buzzer sounds and doors won't close → too much weight/people inside → have someone step out until the buzzer stops, then try again.
Doors keep re-opening on their own → something is breaking the infrared door-sensor beam → check nothing (a bag, a foot, a pet) is in the doorway.

Contact for help:

OTIS Service Hotline — 1800 297 1010 (24 hours). Always quote lift number PL14 and the address 8 Pollen View.

Ceiling Drying RackSteigen Solar Evo Series (Flexi Gen2)+

A ceiling-mounted laundry rack that lowers and raises itself at the press of a button on a small remote control, so you don't have to lift heavy wet laundry by hand.

The remote control: only 3 buttons — Up, Down, and Lighting.

How to lower the two centre poles for bulky items like bedsheets, and how the built-in clothes clips work.

How to pair a new/replacement remote to the system, and how to open the remote to change its batteries.

Brand: Steigen, "Solar Evo Series" (this unit is the Flexi Gen2 model).
Controlled entirely by a small handheld wireless remote with 3 buttons: Up, Down, Lighting.
Remote runs on 2 x AAA batteries.
Designed for heavy-duty use, including bulky items like bed linen (using the two lower centre poles).
Built-in plastic clips on the poles let you hang small items (like socks) without pegs.

How to use it

Everyday use:

Press Up on the remote to raise the rack, or to pause it partway.
Press Down on the remote to lower the rack, or to pause it partway.
Press the Lighting button to turn the built-in LED light on or off.

Hanging bigger items (e.g. bedsheets, towels):

Gently lift the 2 centre poles up and out of their resting cups to lower them for bigger items.
Drape the large item over the lowered poles.
When done, push the poles back down into their original resting position for normal laundry use.

Using the small built-in clips (for socks, small items):

Slip the garment upward into the clip to hold it in place.
Tug the garment downward to remove it.

Pairing a new or replacement remote:

Turn the system's main power switch off, wait 5–10 seconds, then turn it back on. You'll hear a beeping melody as it powers up.
Immediately press and hold the "Light" and "Up" buttons together on the remote — do this before the beeping melody finishes — and keep holding until you hear another beep.
That beep means pairing was successful — the remote is ready to use.

Changing the remote's batteries:

Flip the remote over and remove the back cover.
Lift the back panel up to reveal the battery slot.
Insert 2 new AAA batteries.

Cleaning & maintenance

No specific cleaning schedule is given in this manual. As general good practice, wipe the poles down occasionally and keep the ceiling track/motor area free of dust.

⚠ Safety warnings

This manual does not list a maximum weight limit or specific hazard warnings — as a general precaution, keep children away from the remote control (it operates a motorised, moving overhead rack), and don't stand directly under the rack while it's being lowered or raised.

If something goes wrong

Remote doesn't respond to any button → batteries may be flat, or the remote has lost its pairing → change the batteries first (see above); if still unresponsive, re-pair the remote using the pairing steps above.
Rack won't move even with a working remote → check the main power switch to the system is turned on.

Contact for help:

No support phone number or email is given in this manual. Contact the installer/supplier who fitted the Steigen system.

Smoke AlarmClipsal (Schneider Electric) 755LPSMA4+

A battery-powered smoke detector that talks wirelessly to all the other smoke alarms in the house, so if one detects smoke, they all sound the alarm together.

What the alarm looks like and where its parts are: the Test/Hush button, the red warning light (LED), and the on/off switch.

Exactly how to test the alarm (press and hold 3 seconds) versus how to silence a false alarm (press once).

Brand/model: Clipsal (by Schneider Electric), model 755LPSMA4 — lithium battery powered, with wireless interconnection to other alarms in the house.
Battery is built-in and lasts 10 years — the whole unit should be replaced 10 years after its manufacture date, not just the battery.
Up to 40 alarms can be wirelessly linked together in one house.
Alarm sound level: 85 dB at 3 metres (loud, as designed).
Alarms should be replaced 10 years after manufacture, and there are no user-serviceable parts inside — never open the casing yourself.

How to use it

Testing the alarm (do this once a month):

Press and hold the Test/Hush button for 3 seconds until it sounds.
All other interconnected alarms in the house will also sound for 20 seconds — this confirms they're all talking to each other properly.
If an alarm doesn't sound when tested, its battery may be faulty — note it and arrange a replacement.

Silencing a false alarm (e.g. burnt toast) — the Hush feature:

Find the alarm that triggered — it's the one with the red light flashing.
Press its Test/Hush button once.
That alarm — and all linked alarms — will stop sounding within 5 to 10 seconds.
Note: after a hush, that alarm won't re-trigger on smoke for about 10 minutes, so make sure the air has actually cleared first.

If the alarm keeps beeping occasionally (not a full alarm):

1 beep every 40 seconds = low battery warning.
2 beeps every 40 seconds = a fault with the unit.
In both cases, you can press Test/Hush once to snooze the beeping for 10 hours, but the unit will need attention (cleaning, or eventually replacement) — don't ignore it long-term.

Cleaning & maintenance

Dust, dirt and insects — check monthly. Gently vacuum or brush the alarm to remove buildup.
Insect-proofing spray on a cloth wiped around the alarm — every 3–6 months — to stop insects getting inside and causing false alarms.
Always test the alarm again after cleaning it.
Replace the whole alarm 10 years after its manufacture date, even if it still seems to work.

⚠ Safety warnings

Never test the alarm with an open flame (e.g. a lighter or match) — this can injure you or damage the alarm. Use the Test/Hush button only.
Don't open the smoke alarm casing or try to repair it yourself — there are no parts inside for a homeowner to service.
If an alarm sounds and you can't find any smoke or the cause, don't just silence and forget it — identify which unit triggered (its red light will flash) and check it's not a fault needing servicing.

If something goes wrong

Alarm won't sound when tested → check the on/off switch is ON, and that the alarm is properly clicked into its mounting bracket → if it still doesn't sound, the battery has likely failed — replace the whole unit.
Alarm beeps twice every 40 seconds with red light flashing → internal fault → clean the unit first (dust/insects can cause this); if it continues, replace the alarm.
Alarms sound with no smoke or steam present (nuisance alarm) → identify and hush the triggering unit (see steps above), then clean it, since dust or insects are the most common cause.
One alarm sounds but you're not sure why → check the "alarm memory": for 72 hours after an alarm, the unit that triggered will keep flashing its red light once every 2 seconds so you can identify it later.

Contact for help:

Schneider Electric Customer Care Australia: 13 73 28 (customercare.au@schneider-electric.com) or New Zealand: 0800 652 999 (sales@nz.schneider-electric.com) — no Singapore contact is listed in this manual; for local support, contact the electrician who installed the alarms.

House Care

Materials & maintenance guide

What to use, what to avoid, room by room and surface by surface — with the actual reference diagrams from the guides.

Marble & Stone FloorsGallery T Pte Ltd+

How to clean and protect the natural stone (marble, granite, and similar) floors and countertops in the house without staining, scratching, or dulling them.

Routine care

Daily/weekly wipe-down — plain water and a soft mop or cloth
Deeper clean — as needed, with a proper stone cleaner or a little mild soap in water

✅ Do

Use coasters between stone countertops and glasses, cups, vases, or anything that produces moisture.
Use placemats under dishes or anything that could scratch the surface.
Blot up spills and moisture straight away. Don't rub — rubbing spreads the stain. Stone is porous, so water left sitting on it can leave a permanent mark.
Put rugs or doormats at the entrances to stone-floored areas. They trap dirt, sand, and grit that would otherwise scratch the floor. Shake the mats out often.
Add protective pads under furniture legs that sit on stone tiles.
Clean stone floors with a string mop or microfibre mop. Use a soft rag or sponge for countertops, showers, or backsplashes.
Plain water is enough for daily or weekly cleaning. For a deeper clean, use a proper stone cleaner, or a few drops of mild soap in water — always follow the product's own instructions.

❌ Never

Never use vinegar, window cleaner, abrasive cleaners, chlorine bleach, or any harsh chemical on stone.
Never use scouring pads or abrasive sponges.
Never let acids touch marble — acidic spills like fruit juice, wine, or soda can etch (permanently dull) the surface. Wipe them up immediately.

Good to know

Marble is a natural material, so veins, small pits, and colour/tone variation are normal — not defects. Grouting, patching, or filling can easily repair veins or pits if they bother you.
This guidance applies to granite, travertine, and limestone as well, not just marble.

Contact:

Gallery T Pte Ltd — Tel: 6343 0010, sales@galleryt.com.sg, www.galleryt.com.sg

Engineered Timber FlooringWood&Wood+

Everyday care for the engineered timber (wood) floors — how to clean them and stop them getting scratched, dented, or warped.

Routine care

Sweep or vacuum — regularly, with a soft brush head
Damp-mop stubborn dirt — as needed, with a well wrung-out mop

✅ Do

Fit protective pads under furniture legs, and use mats under furniture with wheels/castors.
Lay rugs over a clean floor, so dirt doesn't get trapped underneath and grind into the surface.
Put doormats at every outside door to catch dirt, sand, and grit before it's tracked onto the timber.
Rotate rugs occasionally and use curtains or blinds — all timber floors gradually fade or change shade with sunlight, this is normal.
Take off high heels with exposed sharp heel tips before walking on the floor — they can dent it.
Keep pets' nails/claws trimmed and blunt.
Keep rooms ventilated — humidity changes make the timber's joints expand and contract naturally.
Sweep or vacuum regularly with a soft brush head to lift grit before it scratches the floor.
For stubborn dirt, damp-mop using a mop that has been wrung out well — too much water can make the floor swell or "cup" (warp).
Wipe up spills immediately with a dry cloth; for sticky spots, dampen the cloth slightly first.

❌ Never

Never use household detergents, polishes, steel wool pads, or wax on the floor — they're too abrasive, can make the floor dangerously slippery, and can leave a film that stops future recoating.
Never use spirits or kerosene (or any petroleum-based product) — this will permanently dull the floor's coating.
Never use a steam mop — the heat and moisture force into the joints and can warp the timber and damage the coating.
Never over-wet the floor when mopping.

Good to know

All timber floors naturally fade, darken, or change shade over time, especially with sun exposure — this is expected, not damage.
If a board ever needs replacing, expect a slight difference in grain and tone between old and new — it's a natural material and can't be matched perfectly.

Contact:

Wood&Wood — Tel: +65 6221 1854, Fax: +65 6223 2343

Bathroom Fittings, Toilets & SinksSanitus Building Supplies+

How to clean bathroom taps, fittings, toilets, washbasins and kitchen sinks so they last and don't get damaged.

Routine care

Wipe taps and fittings — regularly — soap and water
Check basin/wooden cabinet for leaks — regularly — visual check underneath

✅ Do

Wipe and clean taps and fittings regularly with normal soap and water — this keeps the shiny chrome finish looking good.
Rinse or wipe off any cleaning-product residue immediately.
Check the cabinet under the basin mixer tap regularly — water can leak through the small hole behind it (meant for the pop-up waste control rod) and damage the cabinet.
Use a separate rubber hose for washing the bathroom floor. Don't use or pull on the shower hose for that — it's for showering only.
Check washbasins sitting on wooden cabinets regularly for water seepage or dripping, which can damage the cabinet underneath.

❌ Never

Never use acids or abrasive cleaning products — they tarnish and destroy the chrome and other finishes.
Never throw hard objects, or anything not meant for the toilet, into the toilet bowl — it will clog.
Never put sanitiser tablets or liquid inside the toilet cistern/tank — it damages the rubber or silicone seal underneath and can cause the toilet to run non-stop.
Never pour chemicals or abrasive cleaners into a washbasin or toilet bowl — they corrode the rubber parts and seals. If it happens, rinse or flush immediately.
Never force the toilet seat and cover down — always let it close by itself, or press it down gently. Forcing it can break the soft-close mechanism or crack the seat.
Acids should never be used in the bathroom, at any time.

Good to know

None beyond the points above.

Contact:

Sanitus Building Supplies Pte Ltd — Tel: (65) 6841 7011, general@sanitus.com.sg

Rainwater Detention Drain (Underground Tank)—+

A checklist for inspecting the property's underground rainwater storage ("detention") drain system, so problems get caught early — this is a job for the maintenance contractor, not a DIY family task.

Routine care

Visual inspection — monthly, and after any major storm — walk-through checklist (access secure, no clogging, no stagnant water, no pests)
Desilting (mud/sediment removal) — annually, before monsoon season — by a maintenance contractor

✅ Do

Every month, or right after any big storm, have someone check: the drain access stays locked and off-limits to the public; nothing is blocking the maintenance opening; the inlet/outlet screens aren't clogged; there are no cracks, rust, or leaks; there's no stagnant or leftover water sitting in the drain; no mosquitoes are breeding; there are no pests; and there's no build-up of mud/sediment.
Once a year — before the rainy (monsoon) season — arrange for the drain to be professionally desilted (cleared of built-up mud/sediment).
Keep a record of who the Operations & Maintenance Supervisor is, their contact number, and the dates of each inspection.

❌ Never

Never let unauthorised people access the detention drain area.
Never ignore signs like standing water, mosquito breeding, bad smells, or visible sediment build-up — these mean it needs attention soon.

Good to know

On this property's checklist, the pump and standby-generator items are all marked "NA" — meaning 8 Pollen View's system is a passive, gravity-fed drain with no pumps or generator to service.
Project Ref. No.: A1002-00001-2019 — worth quoting if you ever need to contact the original engineer about this system.
The point of this document for the family is simply knowing what "normal" looks like (no smell, no standing water, no mosquitoes) so anything unusual can be reported to the maintenance team quickly.

Contact:

none given in the document — routed through the property's maintenance/facilities contractor

Wall Panels — What You Can Hang & How—+

Which wall anchors are safe to use on the house's precast (lightweight, hollow-core) wall panels for hanging pictures, shelves, or cabinets, and how much weight each one can safely hold.

photos of the Universal Anchor and Nylon Anchor, with their weight limits and what they're used for

photos of the Sleeve Anchor, HIT-HY 70 chemical mortar, and Fischer FHY Bolt, with their weight limits and what they're used for

Routine care

None — this is a one-time install consideration each time something new is hung, not a recurring task.

✅ Do

Always match the anchor/fixing type to what you're hanging and how heavy it is — check the weight table below before drilling.
For anything light (a picture frame, a small shelf, an electrical fitting), a Universal or Nylon anchor is enough.
For anything heavier (a TV bracket, a wardrobe, a kitchen cabinet), use a Sleeve Anchor, HIT-HY 70 mortar, or a Fischer FHY bolt.
When unsure, ask a professional installer — these are hollow-core panels, not solid brick, so the wrong fixing can fail.

❌ Never

Never hang anything heavier than the anchor's rated weight limit — it can pull straight out of the wall.
Never guess which anchor to use — the wrong type for a hollow panel won't hold.

Good to know

(the anchor weight-rating table, in plain words)

Universal Anchor (M8 x 40) — a fast-setting anchor that works in most wall materials. Holds 16 kg per point. Good for: light switches/electrical fittings, sanitary fittings, light fixtures, fans.
Nylon Anchor (M8, M10) — pushed through the wall; it expands in solid walls and "knots" (locks) inside hollow ones. Holds 17–66 kg per point. Good for: wall cabinets, cable trays, window frames, wardrobes.
Sleeve Anchor (M8, M10) — a metal anchor that grips instantly once tightened. Holds 184–192 kg per point. Good for: pipe/cable supports, kitchen cabinets, carpentry work.
HIT-HY 70 Mortar (with M8 rod) — a chemical glue injected into the wall to fix a metal rod in place; works in any wall material. Holds 161–170 kg per point. Good for: pipe/cable supports, wall-mounted brackets, kitchen cabinets, wardrobes.
Fischer FHY Bolt (M6, M8, M10) — expands as it's tightened; if it hits a hollow gap inside the wall it spreads into a Y-shape for extra grip. Holds 30–300 kg per point (varies by size). Good for: pipes/cables, wall cabinets, window frames, wardrobes. - These anchors are rated for wall panels 70–200mm thick, which matches this house's lightweight panel walls.

Contact:

none given in the document

Smart Doorbell / Gate Intercom (Link App)—+

How the smart doorbell at the gate works — a visitor presses a button and the resident answers on their phone — and how to keep the doorbell unit clean and working well.

photo of the gate doorbell unit showing the call button, next to a phone screenshot of what the "Link App" call screen looks like

Routine care

Wipe the unit's surface and camera lens — as needed to keep clean — soft, lightly damp microfibre cloth

✅ Do

When a visitor arrives, they tap the round Mechanical Call Button on the gate unit.
The resident then gets a call notification on their phone through the Link App.
After answering, choose which gate to unlock — Main Gate or Side Gate — and press unlock; that gate opens.
Wipe the doorbell's surface with a soft microfibre cloth regularly.
For stubborn dirt, lightly dampen the cloth with clean water or a mild soap solution.
Gently wipe the camera lens area so the video picture stays clear.
If something seems wrong (no power, unusual heat, or a strange noise), turn off the power and tell the maintenance provider right away.

❌ Never

Never press the touchscreen or buttons with sharp or hard objects.
Never try to open, dismantle, or modify the unit yourself — it can void the warranty and damage the internal parts.
Never use abrasive materials (steel wool, rough sponges) to clean it.
Never use harsh chemicals — alcohol, ammonia, or solvents — on it.
Never spray water or cleaning solution directly onto the device — always dampen the cloth instead, never the unit itself.
Never reset or reconfigure the device unless a system integrator tells you to.

Good to know

Despite the source file being labelled "Daikin," this document has nothing to do with air-conditioning — it's the basIP smart doorbell/gate-intercom system, controlled through the Link App on residents' phones.
For any access-control or intercom problems, contact the system administrator or maintenance provider rather than trying to fix settings yourself.

Contact:

none named — routed through the system integrator/maintenance provider

Wardrobes & Cabinetry (All Materials)Designbuild Construction Pte Ltd+

How to clean and care for the wardrobes and cabinets around the house, across all the different surface materials used (wood veneer, melamine, glossy paint, metal finishes, marble/granite inlays, acrylic, laminate), plus how to fix small veneer damage yourself.

step-by-step drawings showing how to fix a bubble or loosened patch of wood veneer using gentle heat and glue

step-by-step drawings showing how to cut out and patch a damaged piece of veneer

Routine care

Spills/water marks — wipe immediately, especially near sink/dishwasher — damp cloth, dry after
Wood/veneer surfaces — monthly — wood-furniture cleaner, wipe with the grain
Wood/veneer wax finish — twice a year — good-quality emulsion wax
Polished aluminium wax — monthly (humid/coastal) or every 3 months (elsewhere) — soft wax

✅ Do

Keep the house ventilated — open windows, run fans — especially around new furniture, since furniture can release fumes that need fresh air to clear.
Wipe wood/veneer surfaces with a slightly damp soft cloth, working in the direction of the wood grain, then dry with a soft cloth.
Once a month, clean wood/veneer surfaces with a proper wood-furniture cleaner, again wiping with the grain, then dry.
Twice a year, apply a good-quality emulsion wax to wood/veneer finishes — it's clear and also helps stop fingerprints showing.
Wipe up spills and water marks around the sink/dishwasher area as soon as they happen.
Clean cabinet hardware (knobs, handles) occasionally with mild soap and warm water, then dry and buff.
High-gloss painted surfaces: wipe with a soft cloth and warm, soapy water.
Powder-coated (metal) finishes: wash with soap, water, and a soft cloth or sponge.
Polished aluminium: apply a soft wax monthly if the house is near the sea/humid, or every 3 months elsewhere.
Polished chrome hardware: use a damp cloth with a little liquid dish soap, then dry.
Marble/granite/slate inlays: wipe with a damp cloth and warm water; wipe up acidic spills (juice, wine, soda) immediately — they can etch/dull the stone.
Acrylic panels: rinse first to remove dust/grit, then clean with mild soap and water, and dry with a soft cloth.
Laminate surfaces: clean with mild detergent and warm water, wiping in the direction of the surface grain/texture.
Fine built-in woodwork/panelling: dust lightly with a barely damp, lint-free cloth; keep the room's humidity steady.

❌ Never

Never use abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, or powdered cleansers on any cabinet surface.
Never let oven cleaner touch any part of a cabinet.
Never wipe cabinets with a greasy dish cloth.
Never use spray-type polishes containing petroleum solvents — they're flammable and toxic.
Never place very hot pots/pans directly on melamine, polyurethane, or wax-finished surfaces.
Never use solvents like acetone, Dulon Thinners, or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) on powder-coated metal finishes — they soften and dissolve the coating.
Never use benzene, acetone, denatured alcohol, or petrol on acrylic panels.
Never use powdered abrasives, bleach, hydrogen peroxide, or strong acids on laminate surfaces.
Never use polish or wax on a plain (unlacquered) veneer surface.
Never drape a damp or wet dish towel over a sink cabinet door — the trapped moisture causes permanent water damage over time.
Never over-oil hinges — a light dusting with a cotton swab is usually all that's needed.

Good to know

Fixing loose veneer: scrape old glue off both the veneer piece and the furniture (don't wet the veneer itself), apply fresh glue to both sides, press the veneer back down with a roller, cover with paper, then clamp or weigh it down until the glue is fully dry.
Fixing a "blister" (bubble) in veneer: cut a small slit along the grain at the edge of the bubble, gently warm it with a hair dryer (or an iron over kraft paper) to soften the old glue, then immediately roll it flat. If that doesn't work, slit it in an X-shape instead, scrape out the old glue, then glue and clamp as above. (See step-by-step drawings, image p9 above.)
Patching a damaged piece of veneer: cut a diamond-shaped patch around the damage with the long points running with the grain, remove the old veneer down to bare wood, trace the shape onto matching new veneer, cut and fit the patch, glue it in with a roller, clamp for about an hour, then sand level and re-stain to match. (See step-by-step drawings, image p10 above.) For a valuable or highly visible piece, it's best to call a professional furniture repairer rather than DIY.
Door hardware care: keep door tracks free of grease/dirt (wipe clean, then lubricate with graphite or light machine oil); oil hinge pins and rollers — but never oil the locks themselves, use graphite powder in locks instead.
Bi-fold doors specifically: check the gearbox oil level every 3 months and change the oil every 3 years; lubricate hinges monthly; inspect the lifting cables often and replace at the first sign of fraying or damage.
Natural hardwood doors need indoor relative humidity kept between 35% and 50% year-round to avoid warping; a new wooden door can take up to a year to "settle" as it adjusts to the home's humidity — this is normal, not a fault.
Never hang or nail anything directly onto a door panel.

Contact:

Designbuild Construction Pte Ltd (Company Reg/GST No: 201009345Z) — no phone/email listed in the document

Doors — Hardware, Hinges & Stain RemovalDesignbuild Construction Pte Ltd+

How to look after door hardware (hinges, tracks, bi-fold gearboxes), hardwood and vinyl doors, and how to remove common stains from a timber door.

a table showing which household product removes which type of stain from a timber door

Routine care

Bi-fold gearbox oil — check every 3 months, replace every 3 years
Hinges — lubricate monthly
Annual door checklist — once a year — check weather-stripping, tighten screws, clean hinges/sills/tracks, confirm smooth operation

✅ Do

Keep hardware clean and lubricated: wipe grease/dirt off door tracks, then lubricate with graphite or light machine oil.
Check hinge pins for rust or dirt; if rusty, sand gently with fine steel wool, then oil them.
Oil door rollers — but use graphite, not oil, in locks and key channels.
If a metal door shows rust or flaking paint, sand back to bare metal, apply metal primer, then two coats of finish paint.
If black marks appear near the bottom of a wooden door, treat it right away — it can signal rot. Sand, prime, and repaint the area.
Keep door edges, bottoms, and panels fully sealed with paint to keep moisture out.
Bi-fold doors: check the gearbox oil level every 3 months and replace the oil every 3 years; lubricate hinges monthly; check the lifting cables often and replace them at the first sign of wear or fraying; keep all cables at even, snug tension.
Vinyl doors: wash with mild detergent and a soft cloth or soft brush.
Solid hardwood doors: wipe along the direction of the wood grain; rinse off cleaner residue with clean water afterward.
Maintain indoor relative humidity between 35% and 50% to stop a hardwood door from warping.
Once a year: check the weather-stripping, tighten any loose hardware screws, and clear sand/dirt from hinges, sills, and tracks.

❌ Never

Never use oil on locks — graphite only.
Never wash a vinyl door with a high-pressure spray — it can crack the caulking around the door.
Never use liquid grease remover, strong detergents with organic solvents, nail polish remover, furniture polish, or chlorine-bleach cleaners on vinyl doors.
Never let chemicals, solvents, or paint touch a sliding door's bottom sill or track.
Never use strong detergents, ammonia, scouring powders, stain-remover thinner, or nail-varnish remover on a finished hardwood door.
Never use a solvent-based cleaner, or a wax/polish containing silicone, on hardwood doors — it dulls the finish and leaves a greasy film.
Never hang or nail anything onto a door panel.
Never let moisture sit in the door joints.

Good to know

Fruit juice, milk, cream, tea, lemonade, beer, wine, coffee → clean with a soap-based (neutral soap) cleaner
Chocolate, grease, oil, shoe polish, scuff marks, tar → clean with white spirits
Printing ink or other ink, lipstick → clean with alcohol
Blood → clean with cold water only
General tip: the faster you treat a stain, the easier it comes off. After removing any stain, always wipe the area again with clean water and a damp cloth.

Contact:

Designbuild Construction Pte Ltd (same company as the wardrobe guide, Company Reg/GST No: 201009345Z) — no phone/email listed

Aluminium Window & Door Frames + GlassMerdeka Construction Co Pte Ltd+

How to clean and maintain the aluminium window/door frames and glass around the house, including the sliding tracks and hinges, for top-hung windows, sliding doors, and sliding windows.

Routine care

Clean frames and glass — every 6 months — mild detergent, soft cloth/sponge, rinse well
Lubricate hinges, stay arms, locks, rollers — every 6 months — silicone-based spray or grease
Tighten loose screws — every 6 months — check and re-tighten
Full inspection — every 12 months — frames, glass, weatherstripping, seals, locks, stay arms (best done by a contractor)

✅ Do

Clean powder-coated aluminium frames about every 6 months with a soft cloth or sponge, warm water, and mild detergent, then rinse thoroughly with fresh water.
Clean more often if the house is near the coast or in a dusty/industrial area, and pay extra attention to spots rain doesn't normally reach.
Clean and clear dirt from moving parts (sliding shoes, pivot points, tracks) as needed.
Lubricate/grease hinges, screws, and pivot points at least every 6 months.
Check glass panels for cracks and make sure none are loose.
Tighten any loose screws; replace missing or corroded ones.
For everyday glass cleaning: use ordinary household glass detergent, then rinse and dry thoroughly.
Fingerprints, grease, or mastic marks on glass can be removed with acetone, MEK, or ammonia — but only where it won't touch or damage the window seals.
For stubborn/heavy dirt on glass: a cerium oxide + water solution (50–160g per litre), applied with a soft cloth and very light pressure.
If a window or sliding door becomes hard to open: first clean the frame/track and check nothing is blocking it, then apply a silicone-based spray lubricant to hinges and moving parts.
Get frames and glass professionally inspected once a year (checking for damage, weatherstripping condition, seals, smooth operation, locks, and stay-arm/screw condition).

❌ Never

Never let the frame touch temperatures above 70°C — it damages the powder coating.
Never let strong salt, alkaline, or acidic substances touch the frame.
Never use strong solvents (like lacquer thinners) or alkaline/acidic cleaners on powder-coated frames.
Never use abrasive products or acid solutions on glass, especially anything containing chlorine, fluorine, or alkalis.
Never press hard when using the cerium oxide solution — hard pressure makes it abrasive and can damage the glass.
Never force a stiff window or sliding door open — if it's still difficult after cleaning and lubricating, or you hear grinding, call the window/door contractor rather than forcing it.

Good to know

Any hard knock (heavy, hard, or sharp object) on a window frame or glass panel can leave dents, scratches, or cracks — handle with care around these areas.
This guide covers top-hung windows, sliding doors, and sliding windows specifically.

Contact:

Merdeka Construction Co Pte Ltd — Tel: (65) 6481 8328, merdeka@merdekasg.com