Materials & maintenance guide

• Never use vinegar, window cleaner, abrasive cleaners, chlorine bleach, or any harsh chemical on stone.
• Never use scouring pads or abrasive sponges.
• Never let acids touch marble — acidic spills like fruit juice, wine, or soda can etch (permanently dull) the surface. Wipe them up immediately.

• Daily/weekly wipe-down — plain water and a soft mop or cloth
• Deeper clean — as needed, with a proper stone cleaner or a little mild soap in water

• Marble is a natural material, so veins, small pits, and colour/tone variation are normal — not defects. Grouting, patching, or filling can easily repair veins or pits if they bother you.
• This guidance applies to granite, travertine, and limestone as well, not just marble.

Gallery T Pte Ltd — Tel: 6343 0010, sales@galleryt.com.sg, www.galleryt.com.sg

• Never use household detergents, polishes, steel wool pads, or wax on the floor — they're too abrasive, can make the floor dangerously slippery, and can leave a film that stops future recoating.
• Never use spirits or kerosene (or any petroleum-based product) — this will permanently dull the floor's coating.
• Never use a steam mop — the heat and moisture force into the joints and can warp the timber and damage the coating.
• Never over-wet the floor when mopping.

• Sweep or vacuum — regularly, with a soft brush head
• Damp-mop stubborn dirt — as needed, with a well wrung-out mop

• All timber floors naturally fade, darken, or change shade over time, especially with sun exposure — this is expected, not damage.
• If a board ever needs replacing, expect a slight difference in grain and tone between old and new — it's a natural material and can't be matched perfectly.

Wood&Wood — Tel: +65 6221 1854, Fax: +65 6223 2343

• Never use acids or abrasive cleaning products — they tarnish and destroy the chrome and other finishes.
• Never throw hard objects, or anything not meant for the toilet, into the toilet bowl — it will clog.
• Never put sanitiser tablets or liquid inside the toilet cistern/tank — it damages the rubber or silicone seal underneath and can cause the toilet to run non-stop.
• Never pour chemicals or abrasive cleaners into a washbasin or toilet bowl — they corrode the rubber parts and seals. If it happens, rinse or flush immediately.
• Never force the toilet seat and cover down — always let it close by itself, or press it down gently. Forcing it can break the soft-close mechanism or crack the seat.
• Acids should never be used in the bathroom, at any time.

• Wipe taps and fittings — regularly — soap and water
• Check basin/wooden cabinet for leaks — regularly — visual check underneath

• None beyond the points above.

Sanitus Building Supplies Pte Ltd — Tel: (65) 6841 7011, general@sanitus.com.sg

• Never let unauthorised people access the detention drain area.
• Never ignore signs like standing water, mosquito breeding, bad smells, or visible sediment build-up — these mean it needs attention soon.

• Visual inspection — monthly, and after any major storm — walk-through checklist (access secure, no clogging, no stagnant water, no pests)
• Desilting (mud/sediment removal) — annually, before monsoon season — by a maintenance contractor

• On this property's checklist, the pump and standby-generator items are all marked "NA" — meaning 8 Pollen View's system is a passive, gravity-fed drain with no pumps or generator to service.
• Project Ref. No.: A1002-00001-2019 — worth quoting if you ever need to contact the original engineer about this system.
• The point of this document for the family is simply knowing what "normal" looks like (no smell, no standing water, no mosquitoes) so anything unusual can be reported to the maintenance team quickly.

none given in the document — routed through the property's maintenance/facilities contractor

• Always match the anchor/fixing type to what you're hanging and how heavy it is — check the weight table below before drilling.
• For anything light (a picture frame, a small shelf, an electrical fitting), a Universal or Nylon anchor is enough.
• For anything heavier (a TV bracket, a wardrobe, a kitchen cabinet), use a Sleeve Anchor, HIT-HY 70 mortar, or a Fischer FHY bolt.
• When unsure, ask a professional installer — these are hollow-core panels, not solid brick, so the wrong fixing can fail.

• Never hang anything heavier than the anchor's rated weight limit — it can pull straight out of the wall.
• Never guess which anchor to use — the wrong type for a hollow panel won't hold.

• None — this is a one-time install consideration each time something new is hung, not a recurring task.

(the anchor weight-rating table, in plain words)

1. Universal Anchor (M8 x 40) — a fast-setting anchor that works in most wall materials. Holds 16 kg per point. Good for: light switches/electrical fittings, sanitary fittings, light fixtures, fans.
2. Nylon Anchor (M8, M10) — pushed through the wall; it expands in solid walls and "knots" (locks) inside hollow ones. Holds 17–66 kg per point. Good for: wall cabinets, cable trays, window frames, wardrobes.
3. Sleeve Anchor (M8, M10) — a metal anchor that grips instantly once tightened. Holds 184–192 kg per point. Good for: pipe/cable supports, kitchen cabinets, carpentry work.
4. HIT-HY 70 Mortar (with M8 rod) — a chemical glue injected into the wall to fix a metal rod in place; works in any wall material. Holds 161–170 kg per point. Good for: pipe/cable supports, wall-mounted brackets, kitchen cabinets, wardrobes.
5. Fischer FHY Bolt (M6, M8, M10) — expands as it's tightened; if it hits a hollow gap inside the wall it spreads into a Y-shape for extra grip. Holds 30–300 kg per point (varies by size). Good for: pipes/cables, wall cabinets, window frames, wardrobes. - These anchors are rated for wall panels 70–200mm thick, which matches this house's lightweight panel walls.

none given in the document

• When a visitor arrives, they tap the round Mechanical Call Button on the gate unit.
• The resident then gets a call notification on their phone through the Link App.
• After answering, choose which gate to unlock — Main Gate or Side Gate — and press unlock; that gate opens.
• Wipe the doorbell's surface with a soft microfibre cloth regularly.
• For stubborn dirt, lightly dampen the cloth with clean water or a mild soap solution.
• Gently wipe the camera lens area so the video picture stays clear.
• If something seems wrong (no power, unusual heat, or a strange noise), turn off the power and tell the maintenance provider right away.

• Never press the touchscreen or buttons with sharp or hard objects.
• Never try to open, dismantle, or modify the unit yourself — it can void the warranty and damage the internal parts.
• Never use abrasive materials (steel wool, rough sponges) to clean it.
• Never use harsh chemicals — alcohol, ammonia, or solvents — on it.
• Never spray water or cleaning solution directly onto the device — always dampen the cloth instead, never the unit itself.
• Never reset or reconfigure the device unless a system integrator tells you to.

• Wipe the unit's surface and camera lens — as needed to keep clean — soft, lightly damp microfibre cloth

• Despite the source file being labelled "Daikin," this document has nothing to do with air-conditioning — it's the basIP smart doorbell/gate-intercom system, controlled through the Link App on residents' phones.
• For any access-control or intercom problems, contact the system administrator or maintenance provider rather than trying to fix settings yourself.

none named — routed through the system integrator/maintenance provider

• Keep the house ventilated — open windows, run fans — especially around new furniture, since furniture can release fumes that need fresh air to clear.
• Wipe wood/veneer surfaces with a slightly damp soft cloth, working in the direction of the wood grain, then dry with a soft cloth.
• Once a month, clean wood/veneer surfaces with a proper wood-furniture cleaner, again wiping with the grain, then dry.
• Twice a year, apply a good-quality emulsion wax to wood/veneer finishes — it's clear and also helps stop fingerprints showing.
• Wipe up spills and water marks around the sink/dishwasher area as soon as they happen.
• Clean cabinet hardware (knobs, handles) occasionally with mild soap and warm water, then dry and buff.
• High-gloss painted surfaces: wipe with a soft cloth and warm, soapy water.
• Powder-coated (metal) finishes: wash with soap, water, and a soft cloth or sponge.
• Polished aluminium: apply a soft wax monthly if the house is near the sea/humid, or every 3 months elsewhere.
• Polished chrome hardware: use a damp cloth with a little liquid dish soap, then dry.
• Marble/granite/slate inlays: wipe with a damp cloth and warm water; wipe up acidic spills (juice, wine, soda) immediately — they can etch/dull the stone.
• Acrylic panels: rinse first to remove dust/grit, then clean with mild soap and water, and dry with a soft cloth.
• Laminate surfaces: clean with mild detergent and warm water, wiping in the direction of the surface grain/texture.
• Fine built-in woodwork/panelling: dust lightly with a barely damp, lint-free cloth; keep the room's humidity steady.

• Never use abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, or powdered cleansers on any cabinet surface.
• Never let oven cleaner touch any part of a cabinet.
• Never wipe cabinets with a greasy dish cloth.
• Never use spray-type polishes containing petroleum solvents — they're flammable and toxic.
• Never place very hot pots/pans directly on melamine, polyurethane, or wax-finished surfaces.
• Never use solvents like acetone, Dulon Thinners, or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) on powder-coated metal finishes — they soften and dissolve the coating.
• Never use benzene, acetone, denatured alcohol, or petrol on acrylic panels.
• Never use powdered abrasives, bleach, hydrogen peroxide, or strong acids on laminate surfaces.
• Never use polish or wax on a plain (unlacquered) veneer surface.
• Never drape a damp or wet dish towel over a sink cabinet door — the trapped moisture causes permanent water damage over time.
• Never over-oil hinges — a light dusting with a cotton swab is usually all that's needed.

• Spills/water marks — wipe immediately, especially near sink/dishwasher — damp cloth, dry after
• Wood/veneer surfaces — monthly — wood-furniture cleaner, wipe with the grain
• Wood/veneer wax finish — twice a year — good-quality emulsion wax
• Polished aluminium wax — monthly (humid/coastal) or every 3 months (elsewhere) — soft wax

1. Fixing loose veneer: scrape old glue off both the veneer piece and the furniture (don't wet the veneer itself), apply fresh glue to both sides, press the veneer back down with a roller, cover with paper, then clamp or weigh it down until the glue is fully dry.
2. Fixing a "blister" (bubble) in veneer: cut a small slit along the grain at the edge of the bubble, gently warm it with a hair dryer (or an iron over kraft paper) to soften the old glue, then immediately roll it flat. If that doesn't work, slit it in an X-shape instead, scrape out the old glue, then glue and clamp as above. (See step-by-step drawings, image p9 above.)
3. Patching a damaged piece of veneer: cut a diamond-shaped patch around the damage with the long points running with the grain, remove the old veneer down to bare wood, trace the shape onto matching new veneer, cut and fit the patch, glue it in with a roller, clamp for about an hour, then sand level and re-stain to match. (See step-by-step drawings, image p10 above.) For a valuable or highly visible piece, it's best to call a professional furniture repairer rather than DIY.
4. Door hardware care: keep door tracks free of grease/dirt (wipe clean, then lubricate with graphite or light machine oil); oil hinge pins and rollers — but never oil the locks themselves, use graphite powder in locks instead.
5. Bi-fold doors specifically: check the gearbox oil level every 3 months and change the oil every 3 years; lubricate hinges monthly; inspect the lifting cables often and replace at the first sign of fraying or damage.
6. Natural hardwood doors need indoor relative humidity kept between 35% and 50% year-round to avoid warping; a new wooden door can take up to a year to "settle" as it adjusts to the home's humidity — this is normal, not a fault.
7. Never hang or nail anything directly onto a door panel.

Designbuild Construction Pte Ltd (Company Reg/GST No: 201009345Z) — no phone/email listed in the document

• Keep hardware clean and lubricated: wipe grease/dirt off door tracks, then lubricate with graphite or light machine oil.
• Check hinge pins for rust or dirt; if rusty, sand gently with fine steel wool, then oil them.
• Oil door rollers — but use graphite, not oil, in locks and key channels.
• If a metal door shows rust or flaking paint, sand back to bare metal, apply metal primer, then two coats of finish paint.
• If black marks appear near the bottom of a wooden door, treat it right away — it can signal rot. Sand, prime, and repaint the area.
• Keep door edges, bottoms, and panels fully sealed with paint to keep moisture out.
• Bi-fold doors: check the gearbox oil level every 3 months and replace the oil every 3 years; lubricate hinges monthly; check the lifting cables often and replace them at the first sign of wear or fraying; keep all cables at even, snug tension.
• Vinyl doors: wash with mild detergent and a soft cloth or soft brush.
• Solid hardwood doors: wipe along the direction of the wood grain; rinse off cleaner residue with clean water afterward.
• Maintain indoor relative humidity between 35% and 50% to stop a hardwood door from warping.
• Once a year: check the weather-stripping, tighten any loose hardware screws, and clear sand/dirt from hinges, sills, and tracks.

• Never use oil on locks — graphite only.
• Never wash a vinyl door with a high-pressure spray — it can crack the caulking around the door.
• Never use liquid grease remover, strong detergents with organic solvents, nail polish remover, furniture polish, or chlorine-bleach cleaners on vinyl doors.
• Never let chemicals, solvents, or paint touch a sliding door's bottom sill or track.
• Never use strong detergents, ammonia, scouring powders, stain-remover thinner, or nail-varnish remover on a finished hardwood door.
• Never use a solvent-based cleaner, or a wax/polish containing silicone, on hardwood doors — it dulls the finish and leaves a greasy film.
• Never hang or nail anything onto a door panel.
• Never let moisture sit in the door joints.

• Bi-fold gearbox oil — check every 3 months, replace every 3 years
• Hinges — lubricate monthly
• Annual door checklist — once a year — check weather-stripping, tighten screws, clean hinges/sills/tracks, confirm smooth operation

• Fruit juice, milk, cream, tea, lemonade, beer, wine, coffee → clean with a soap-based (neutral soap) cleaner
• Chocolate, grease, oil, shoe polish, scuff marks, tar → clean with white spirits
• Printing ink or other ink, lipstick → clean with alcohol
• Blood → clean with cold water only
• General tip: the faster you treat a stain, the easier it comes off. After removing any stain, always wipe the area again with clean water and a damp cloth.

Designbuild Construction Pte Ltd (same company as the wardrobe guide, Company Reg/GST No: 201009345Z) — no phone/email listed

• Never let the frame touch temperatures above 70°C — it damages the powder coating.
• Never let strong salt, alkaline, or acidic substances touch the frame.
• Never use strong solvents (like lacquer thinners) or alkaline/acidic cleaners on powder-coated frames.
• Never use abrasive products or acid solutions on glass, especially anything containing chlorine, fluorine, or alkalis.
• Never press hard when using the cerium oxide solution — hard pressure makes it abrasive and can damage the glass.
• Never force a stiff window or sliding door open — if it's still difficult after cleaning and lubricating, or you hear grinding, call the window/door contractor rather than forcing it.

• Clean frames and glass — every 6 months — mild detergent, soft cloth/sponge, rinse well
• Lubricate hinges, stay arms, locks, rollers — every 6 months — silicone-based spray or grease
• Tighten loose screws — every 6 months — check and re-tighten
• Full inspection — every 12 months — frames, glass, weatherstripping, seals, locks, stay arms (best done by a contractor)

• Any hard knock (heavy, hard, or sharp object) on a window frame or glass panel can leave dents, scratches, or cracks — handle with care around these areas.
• This guide covers top-hung windows, sliding doors, and sliding windows specifically.

Merdeka Construction Co Pte Ltd — Tel: (65) 6481 8328, merdeka@merdekasg.com