What needs doing, and how often

The Daikin operation manual for the installed units (models CTKM/CTKP 25–71VVMG) does not print step-by-step filter-washing instructions, but it carries safety notes worth knowing:

• Never wash the unit with water — this can cause electric shock or fire. Only the removable indoor filter itself should be rinsed, never the unit body.
• Condensation combined with a dirty filter or a blocked drain can cause the unit to drip and damage furniture/flooring below — this is the main reason the 2-week cadence in dusty conditions matters.
• Always switch off the unit and turn off the circuit breaker before touching the filter.
• Keep the indoor unit at least 1m from a television/radio (interference) and avoid installing/operating it in oily-smoke areas like open kitchens — oil vapour can cause water leakage from the unit.
• This appliance uses R32 refrigerant; if the unit is not cooling properly, refrigerant leakage could be the cause — do not use it until a qualified service person confirms a repair.

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The maintenance schedule sheet appended to the manual confirms the mechanics of the free servicing:

• Covers the Air-Conditioning and Toilet Exhaust System as one line item, DLP (defects liability period) of 12 months, with 4 visits at 3/6/9/12 months after the handover date (each marked "TBA" until scheduled).
• Service department office hours: Monday–Friday 09:00–17:00, Saturday 09:00–12:00.
• If you can't keep a scheduled appointment, you must call at least 3 days ahead; missing this without notice forfeits that visit permanently — there is no make-up servicing after the DLP period ends.

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Rheem's manual (models EHG-30 to EHG-100, factory-set to 60°C) gives the actual PRV test procedure:

• Lift the pressure relief valve lever and hold for a few seconds. Water should flow out from the discharge pipe — if it doesn't, call a serviceman, don't attempt DIY repair.
• It is normal for the PRV to release a small amount of hot water during the heating cycle due to expansion — this is not a fault.
• Blockage of the overflow pipe voids the warranty outright, since it can lead to tank expansion/rupture.
• To fully drain a unit (e.g. for other maintenance): turn off power → turn off incoming water → open a hot tap → lift the PRV lever to drain → reverse the steps to refill.
• Never power on the heater before it's filled with water — dry-firing is explicitly excluded from warranty. Water above 50°C can scald; always mix in cold water at the tap.

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The manual doesn't give an element de-scaling procedure itself (consistent with "qualified person only"), but its troubleshooting table is useful for spotting when it's needed:

• Unusual noise from the heater or pipework (heating-up noise, or noise when mains pressure is unstable) can indicate scaling on the heating element — the remedy listed is simply "call for a serviceman."
• Power must be turned off before any service or maintenance work commences, and only original manufacturer parts may be used in any replacement.
• Warranty terms vary by country of purchase and are handled through your local Rheem retailer — keep proof of purchase to make a claim.

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The DEA System LIVI/X sliding-gate operator manual's maintenance table lists exactly three things to be done every 6 months: cleaning of external surfaces, checking of screw tightening, and checking the release-mechanism operation.

• Hard rule: "All installation, maintenance, cleaning or repair operations on any part of the system must be performed exclusively by qualified personnel" — this is not a homeowner DIY task.
• Manual release / emergency operation: if there's a power failure or malfunction, the motor can be released (per the manual's Pic. 12) so the gate can be operated by hand. Knowing this in advance matters — the manual stresses that hesitation in an emergency can be dangerous.
• If the gate fails to move on command, first check that the manual unlocking system is fully closed/engaged — a common false-fault cause.
• Consult DEA System directly for any issue not resolved by their troubleshooting table.

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The full monthly/after-storm checklist (per Project Ref. A1002-00001-2019) covers more than clogging and stagnant water:

• Access must remain secure and out of bounds to the public and unauthorized personnel.
• No mosquito breeding and no pest infestation are separate line items alongside "no stagnant water."
• Structural integrity check specifically means looking for cracks, rust, and leaks in the drain and its features.
• No residual water should sit at the inlet/outlet structures, and there should be no obstruction to the maintenance access/opening itself.
• Where pumps or a standby generator are part of the system (online-pump/offline-pump configurations), routine pump lubrication/reliability testing and generator load testing are also monthly items.

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Beyond "desilting before monsoon," the annual SOP bundle (where the system includes pumps) also calls for:

• Inspecting, servicing, replacing, lubricating and performance-testing any pump(s).
• Inspecting protective electrical devices — overload, earth fault, residual current relays — certified safe by a Licensed Electrical Worker (LEW).
• Function-testing all pump starters and level-control systems, replacing faulty/worn parts as needed.
• For systems with a standby generator: servicing the engine, topping up engine oil, and checking the radiator, charger, batteries and starting system.

(This property's detention drain is gravity/pump type as ticked on the SOP cover sheet — check which pump-related items are actually "NA" for this house before assuming they all apply.)

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Merdeka Construction's O&M manual for the top-hung windows/sliding doors gives specific products and a stuck-window procedure:

• For everyday glass cleaning: ordinary shop detergents, rinsed and dried. Fingerprint/grease marks can be removed with acetone, MEC or ammonia only if these don't attack the seals.
• For persistent soiling: a cerium oxide + water solution (50–160 g/litre) applied with a soft cloth and very light pressure — heavy pressure makes cerium oxide abrasive and can damage the glass.
• Never use chlorine, fluorine or alkali-based acid cleaners, or any abrasive product.
• If a top-hung window's stay arm gets stiff: don't force it. Clean the frame/track first, then apply silicone-based spray lubricant to the hinges and locking mechanism. If it's still stiff or grinding, call the window/door contractor — don't keep forcing it.
• Powder-coated aluminium finish: avoid contact with anything over 70°C, and avoid strong salt/alkali/acid exposure — both degrade the coating permanently.

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The manual's recommended annual (12-month) inspection checklist is more specific than "frames, seals, locks":

• Sign of damage in the window/door frame and glass.
• Condition of the weatherstripping.
• Presence of seal between the window/door frame and the wall.
• Ease of operation and condition of mechanical connections.
• Condition of the locking mechanism.
• Condition of the friction stay and its fixing screw specifically (these loosen with repeated opening/closing).

Any loose screw found should be tightened at this same visit, not left for the 6-monthly lubrication round.

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Designbuild's Bi-Fold Door Maintenance section goes well beyond "lubricate monthly":

• Check bottom door rollers are free of obstruction and tracking evenly up the side rails; inspect the roller bolts.
• Inspect the complete doorframe and each hinge; lubricate hinges monthly (as noted), but also oil hinges, rollers, pulley angles and both side latches as part of the same round.
• Cables need frequent inspection too: replace at the first sign of damage, wear or fraying; keep equal tension on all cables (each should have exactly 1 full wrap around its drum when fully closed); check cable clamps are tight and not rubbing the door/building.
• New doors: cables tend to stretch/loosen as they bed in — check often and re-tighten in the first weeks.
• Keep all safety decals visible and undamaged; call the factory (not a generic handyman) if any decal is lost or worn.

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Same source, gearbox-specific detail:

• Check the oil level in the gearbox every 3 months; replace the oil entirely every 3 years (matches the CALENDAR note).
• The limit switch worm gears should occasionally get a small amount of gear grease for extra life — a separate, easy-to-miss lubrication point.
• Also check the limit switch/chain for tension, alignment and wear, and make sure the down-limit switch is set correctly so the door fully closes.
• Make sure the limit switch is set so the door only opens to its designated clear opening — never let the door run past this point, as that stresses the gearbox and cables.
• Inspect electrical cords for pinching or binding at the same time as the gearbox check.

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Brandt Telescopic Hood AT1490X (400W, 950 m³/hr):

• Withdraw the aluminium grease filters by releasing their anchoring points; clean either in the dishwasher or by soaking in hot water, or with special aerosol degreasers (protect non-metallic parts). Let dry before refitting.
• Dishwasher cleaning with aggressive detergent can blacken the metallic surface — this is cosmetic only and doesn't affect the filter's gas-retaining performance.
• Important: grease keeps depositing in the extractor while cooking whether the hood is switched on or not, so the once-a-month minimum applies regardless of how often you actually run the fan.
• Poor airflow/oil dripping onto the stove are both listed fault symptoms directly caused by a clogged/saturated grease filter — the fix is simply to wash it.
• Always disconnect the appliance from the mains before removing filters.

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Same hood manual:

• Charcoal filter life is 3 to 6 months depending on usage — it cannot be regenerated/exhausted, only replaced.
• Installed by turning it clockwise to engage with the motor anchorage.
• Before first use, remove the plastic wrapping from the filter, but be sure to refit the circular charcoal filter itself after removing the wrapper — a step easy to forget.
• Charcoal filters are only relevant if the hood is run in re-circulating (non-ducted) mode; if it's ducted outside, a missing/expired charcoal filter isn't the cause of odour problems.
• Symptom “strong cooking smell” in the troubleshooting table is specifically tied to a missing or expired charcoal filter in re-circulating mode.

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Brandt steam oven's monthly maintenance is actually three separate small jobs, not one:

• Water intake tube: unscrew it and remove any hard-water deposits inside using a thin pointed object such as a skewer or knitting needle.
• Steam generator: pour ½ cup of white alcohol vinegar directly onto the generator, leave for a few minutes, then clean and rinse with water. Do not use sponges, abrasive powders, or a commercial coffee-maker descaler on it.
• Gutter: pull it upward to remove, wipe clean, and reseat it using its three locating notches.
• Separately, wipe the cavity with a dry cloth after every use (once the generator has cooled), or leave the door open to air-dry.
• Accessories (trays etc.) are dishwasher- or hand-washable with a small amount of detergent; soak first if heavily soiled.

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Beyond the 90°C disinfect cycle itself:

• The Drum Clean light comes on automatically after 25 wash cycles; a fresh 25-cycle count restarts once you run it. If you'd rather skip it, hold the Drum Clean button for 3 seconds to clear the light and start a normal wash instead.
• No laundry may be in the drum during this cycle — it's a disinfection cycle, not a wash.
• Cleaning effectiveness improves with the correct amount of a dedicated drum-cleaning agent (not regular detergent).
• Door/window seal: wipe after every wash to remove lint and stains — built-up lint here can cause leaks. Check for and remove coins/buttons trapped in the seal.
• Hard water areas: use a washing-machine descaling product periodically and check the drum for scale build-up; if present, run an empty drum cycle with the descaler per its own instructions.
• Never use alcohol, solvents or other chemicals to clean the machine itself — neutral non-abrasive detergent only, and never steel wool on the drum.

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Designbuild's cabinetry care manual is specific about products, not just frequency:

• Daily: wipe with a slightly damp soft cloth, then dry in the direction of the wood grain.
• Monthly: use a cloth dampened with a quality cleaner formulated for wooden furniture (a good emulsion-type cleaner is usually free of wax, petroleum solvents or silicones) — not a generic household spray.
• Don'ts: no spray polishes containing petroleum solvents (flammable, toxic if swallowed); no abrasive cleaners, scouring pads or powdered cleansers; never let oven cleaner touch any part of the cabinet; don't use a dish cloth to wipe the exterior (grease/detergent residue).
• Hardware (door/drawer knobs): clean periodically with mild soap and warm water, then dry and buff. Hinges do not need lubrication — just dust with cotton-tipped swabs.
• Wipe up spills immediately, especially around the sink/dishwasher cabinet — draping a damp dish towel over a cabinet door is called out as a specific cause of permanent water damage.

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Same manual, wax-specific and minor-repair detail:

• Twice a year, apply a good quality emulsion wax (clear, prevents fingerprints). Extended/excessive use of wax polish can itself build up a film, and silicone-based polishes can actually harm the finish — more is not better.
• Minor water rings, stains or scratches: rub lightly along the grain with fine steel wool, then apply a scratch-removing polish matched to the wood's colour/value. Deep scratches should go to a professional refinisher, not DIY.
• Loose veneer can be re-glued at home: scrape old glue off both surfaces, apply yellow carpenter's glue, clamp with a paper pad for full, even pressure until dry. A veneer blister can be treated by slitting along the grain, filling with warm white vinegar to dissolve the old glue, drying, then re-gluing under clamped pressure.

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Samsung fridge manual, replacement steps:

• Put a flat-head screwdriver into the groove on the bottom of the deodorizer filter cover and pry it up; replace the filter, then refit the cover.
• Recommended usage period is one year, though actual life varies with usage — matches the CALENDAR note.
• The replacement filter is not included — it must be purchased separately from a Samsung service centre.
• Applies to models with this feature only (marked * in the parts diagram) — check this fridge actually has one fitted before assuming the task applies.

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Samsung fridge manual:

• Vacuum the rear panel (cords and exposed parts) once or twice a year to keep dust off — matches the CALENDAR note.
• Important safety warning not currently captured: "Do not remove the rear panel cover — electric shock may occur." Vacuuming should be external/surface only, never behind the cover.
• Related: the manual separately notes that dust build-up anywhere on the back of the fridge increases energy consumption, and recommends allowing clearance on all sides (left/right/back/top) at installation to help air exhaust and keep bills down.

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Interlink Power System's O&M manual for this installation (4 panels, 1.96kWp):

• Equipment: Shine Solar SNM120H-182M-490W panels (15-year product warranty, 25-year linear power-output warranty) feeding a Huawei SUN2000-3KTL-L1 inverter.
• Maintenance is genuinely minimal: check inverter connection plugs are secure, check circuit breakers are in the correct state, clean/remove dust deposits, and clean the panels with water and a squeegee (matches the CALENDAR note) — roof access to the panels is required.
• Normal running state shows LED1 and LED2 steady green on the inverter; any other combination (blinking/red/off) indicates a fault — refer to the troubleshooting LED table before calling anyone.
• Emergency/support contact: Interlink Power System, tel 6484-1406, 32 Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2 #04-13.
• The inverter itself is described as “virtually maintenance free” — there's nothing to service inside it under normal operation.

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Model: Clipsal/Schneider Electric 755LPSMA4 lithium-battery photoelectric smoke alarm with wireless interconnect (up to 40 units).

• Press and hold Test/Hush until the second burst of 3 beeps finishes; check the red LED flashes on every interconnected unit, not just the one you pressed.
• Never use an open flame to test an alarm — explicitly called out as a hazard, not just bad practice.
• If installed in a mobile home, test weekly and before every journey, not just monthly.
• A false/nuisance alarm (sounding with no smoke) requires identifying the triggering unit by its flashing red LED, then pressing Test/Hush on it; wait 10 minutes before testing again to avoid abnormal responses.
• Do not remove the dust cover until 24 hours after all construction/renovation work is finished — construction dust causes false alarms.

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Same manual, cleaning specifics:

• Monthly: vacuum or soft-brush the unit to keep it free of dirt, dust and insects (matches the note's 3–6 month exterior-clean cadence, but the manual actually recommends checking monthly for dirt/dust/insects, with insect surface spray as the 3–6 month add-on).
• Apply a small amount of insect surface spray to a cloth (not directly onto the alarm) and wipe around the unit every 3–6 months to reduce insects getting inside the housing.
• Critical step currently missing from the note: ALWAYS test the alarm immediately after cleaning it, printed in the manual as its own standalone instruction.
• Never spray cleaner directly onto/into the unit.

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Same manual:

• Sealed lithium battery is rated for a 10-year life, matching the whole-unit 10-year replacement interval — the battery isn't meant to be changed separately, which is why the CALENDAR note says "no swap."
• Manufacturer's warranty is 5 years from the date of installation (not from manufacture) — worth recording the install date somewhere.
• Do not open the casing or attempt to repair the unit — there are no user-serviceable parts inside.
• Before disposal, move the battery disconnect switch to the disconnect position — this prevents an ongoing low-battery beep once the sealed battery eventually runs flat in the bin.
• If a unit fails to alarm during a routine test, or its warranty has expired, the guidance is simply: replace with a new smoke alarm (a licensed electrician should do the physical replacement/wiring).

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The Brandt gas hob has no CALENDAR entry at all today. Key points from its manual:

• Always disconnect the gas and 220–240V supply before cleaning or maintenance.
• Removable burner parts should be washed frequently with warm water and soap to remove caked-on residue, then dried thoroughly.
• On models with automatic ignition, the electronic ignition tip must be cleaned frequently or the gas holes can clog and ignition will fail.
• Do not use steam cleaners, abrasive powders, or corrosive substances on enameled parts.
• Stainless steel parts can discolour from prolonged contact with hard/calcareous water or phosphorus-based detergents — rinse and dry thoroughly, and clean up spills promptly.
• Gas taps that jam or become hard to turn must be replaced, not oiled — and this replacement must only be done by a manufacturer-authorised technician.
• Safety: if a burner won't light within 15 seconds, stop and wait at least 1 minute before retrying; if the cooktop glass ever cracks, shut off all burners/heating elements, isolate the gas supply, and stop using the appliance immediately.

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No oven entry currently exists in the calendar. From the Brandt oven manual:

• The cavity has a microporous self-degreasing enamel. To start a self-clean, set the lever to position "n" — this runs a 30-minute countdown cycle.
• Remove all accessories and any thick food deposits before running this cycle; surfaces get hotter than normal use during it, so keep children away.
• Clean the outer surfaces with a window-cleaning product on a soft cloth — never abrasive creams or scouring sponges.
• Never use a steam cleaner or abrasive/metal scrapers on the glass door — this can scratch it and cause the glass to shatter.
• To clean the inside glass properly: open the door fully, wedge it with the plastic wedge supplied, then use a screwdriver to unclip and remove the glass panel(s) for cleaning. On reassembly, the rubber stops go back with their arrows pointing upward, and the last panel clips in shiny-side-out.
• Always turn the oven off and let it cool before any internal cleaning.

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Distinct from the deodorizer filter already on the calendar, this fridge (dispenser models) has a separate water filter with its own replacement cycle:

• Part number for a replacement: HAFEX/EXP, purchased through a local Samsung service centre.
• The filter indicator light turns red as the replace-by reminder.
• Replacement steps: shut off the main water supply, connect/reconnect the supply and dispenser lines to the new filter, check for leaks, press and hold Filter Reset for 3 seconds to reset the lifecycle counter, then flush 1 litre of water through to clear impurities.
• Warning: use only Samsung-provided or Samsung-approved filters — third-party filters may leak and damage the refrigerator, and Samsung explicitly disclaims responsibility for any resulting damage.

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Separate from the Drum Clean disinfect cycle already on the calendar, the machine has two physical filters that need periodic manual cleaning:

• Water supply hose filter (if water flow seems weak with the tap open): close the tap, remove the inlet hose, clean the filter, reconnect.
• Washing-machine inlet filter: unscrew the water inlet hose from the back of the machine, brush the filter clean, reconnect.
• Drain pump filter: open the service flap at the front-bottom of the machine, turn the filter counter-clockwise to remove, clear out lint/debris, refit and close. Warnings: beware of hot water when opening it; disconnect the appliance first to avoid electric shock; never open this filter while the machine is running — only when fully switched off; make sure it's refitted properly afterward to avoid leaks.
• The detergent drawer should also be pulled out, washed under running water, and its housing cleaned with an old toothbrush if residue builds up.

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The main door's Yale YMF40A RL digital lock has no maintenance entry on the calendar at all. Key facts from its manual:

• Runs on 4x 1.5V AA alkaline batteries; expected to last about 1 year at 10 uses/day. Do not use rechargeable batteries — only alkaline is recommended, and all 4 must be replaced together.
• Replace batteries when the Low Battery LED flickers red or a low-battery voice notice plays; there's also a 9V emergency terminal on the outside to power a replacement in the meantime.
• It is recommended to change the User PIN Code periodically for security.
• Never spray water or wipe with benzene, gasoline or alcohol — this can damage the electronic circuit, cause deterioration, or peel the paint. Use a soft dry/slightly damp microfiber cloth only.
• Warranty explicitly does not cover damp/seaside exposure, excessive heat/humidity, corrosion, unauthorised modification, or accidental battery/liquid spillage.

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The motorised laundry rack (Steigen system) has no calendar entry. From its guide:

• Remote control battery: 2x AAA batteries, replaced by flipping the remote over, removing the back cover and back panel.
• To pair a new/replacement remote: power-cycle the system's main switch (off, wait 5–10 seconds, back on) — it will play a beep melody. Immediately (don't wait for the melody to finish) press “Light” and “Up” together until a release beep sounds, confirming successful pairing.
• For heavier items like bed linen, the 2 middle poles can be lowered out of their cache; return them to the original position for normal use afterward.
• No lubrication, cleaning cadence or motor-service interval is specified in this short guide — it only covers operation, pairing and remote battery replacement.

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Despite the filename, this PDF is actually the owner manual for the Smart Doorbell (BAS-IP) system at the main gate/entrance — a device with no calendar entry today. Care & maintenance points:

• Clean with a soft microfiber cloth; for stubborn dirt, lightly dampen with clean water or a mild soap solution, and gently wipe the camera lens to keep video quality clear.
• Never spray water or cleaning solution directly onto the device, use abrasive materials (steel wool, rough sponges), or use harsh chemicals (alcohol, ammonia, solvents).
• Do not press the touchscreen/buttons with sharp or hard objects, and do not attempt to dismantle or reconfigure it yourself — both can void the warranty and this should go through the system integrator/maintenance provider.
• If there's a malfunction (no power, abnormal heat or noise), isolate power and inform maintenance personnel immediately rather than troubleshooting it yourself.

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No flooring task exists on the calendar, yet the marble/stone flooring throughout the house has its own dedicated guideline (Gallery T Pte Ltd):

• Daily/weekly cleaning: plain water with a string or microfibre mop is sufficient. For deeper cleaning, use a heavy-duty stone cleaner or a few drops of mild soap in water, following that product's own instructions (cleaners vary).
• Never use vinegar, window cleaner, abrasive cleaners, chlorine bleach or other harsh chemicals, and avoid scouring pads/abrasive sponges — marble is porous and these cause permanent damage or dulling.
• Blot up spills and moisture promptly rather than rubbing — water left sitting on porous stone can leave a permanent stain.
• Use coasters/mats under anything that produces moisture or could scratch (glasses, vases, furniture legs), and place doormats at entry points to trap grit before it scratches the floor.
• Veining and small pits are natural characteristics of real stone, not defects — they can be repaired by grouting, patching or filling if desired.

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Also missing from the calendar entirely (Wood&Wood guideline):

• Sweep/vacuum regularly with a soft bristle head; for stubborn dirt, damp-mop with a well-wrung mop — over-wetting changes the floor's moisture balance and can cause cupping.
• Never use household detergents, polishes, wax or steel wool pads — these can scratch, make the floor dangerously slippery, or leave a silicone/wax film that blocks future recoating. Never use spirits or kerosene — any petroleum distillate irreversibly dulls the coating.
• Steam mops are explicitly not recommended — the heat and forced moisture can damage the coating and cause cupping at joints/cracks.
• Fit protective pads under furniture legs and mats under castored furniture; use doormats at exterior doors to trap grit that would otherwise scratch the floor.
• Keep pets' nails trimmed and remove sharp-heeled shoes — both are called out as specific denting/scratching risks.
• Rotate rugs periodically and keep the floor out of direct sunlight (curtains/blinds) to reduce fading/shade-shifting over time.

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No bathroom-fittings task exists on the calendar (distinct from the water heater/pump items). From Sanitus Building Supplies' guideline:

• Clean tap fittings/accessories with normal soap and water only; rinse or wipe off any cleaning-product residue immediately, or it tarnishes the chrome finish. Acids and abrasive cleaners must never be used — explicitly stated as a hard rule, not just a preference.
• When cleaning a basin mixer, watch for water running into the hole behind it (meant for the pop-up waste rod) — it can damage the cabinet behind; check the cabinet regularly for this.
• Never put sanitizer tablets or liquid inside a toilet cistern/tank — it deforms the rubber/silicone under the discharge valve and can cause the toilet to run non-stop.
• Don't force the toilet seat/cover closed — this can damage the soft-close mechanism or crack it; let it close on its own or press gently.
• Wash-basins on wooden cabinets should be checked frequently for water seepage/dripping to prevent cabinet damage.

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Separate from the bi-fold door already on the calendar, the same Designbuild manual covers the property's vinyl and solid hardwood door panels, which have no entry of their own:

• Vinyl doors: wash with mild detergent and a soft cloth/long-handled soft bristle brush — never a high-pressure spray, which can crack the caulking around the door. Avoid liquid grease remover, strong detergents with organic solvents, nail polish remover, or chlorine-bleach cleaners.
• Hardwood doors: maintain relative humidity between 35–50% year-round to minimise the door expanding/contracting. Wipe along the grain with a damp cloth or chamois, then dry immediately; rinse off detergent residue fully. Never let moisture sit in the joints, and never hang or nail anything onto the door itself.
• Stain-removal cheat sheet: fruit juice/milk/wine → soap-based neutral cleaner; chocolate/grease/shoe polish/tar → white spirits; ink/lipstick → alcohol; blood → cold water.
• An annual check should confirm weather-stripping is still effective (paints/stains/varnishes can degrade it on contact) and that hardware operates smoothly with all screws tightened.

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